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Cylinder honing..
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:00 am
by Hugz
Thought I might hone some of my cylinders and need some tips....
Does this tool look suitable? Hones from 50mm to 175mm and 102 bores are approximately 58mm so I'm thinking I maybe better finding a tool that has a mid range closer to that size.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/390396307678 ... 1423.l2649
Would a hand held electric drill suffice or should a drill press be used? I have a few old blocks to experiment on.
What would be the best cutting oil to be used? Singers machine oil?
Happy Ostara for the Pagans amongst us....

Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:15 am
by Keith.P
I have got one of them, had it for years and they are a little big for the Seagull cylinder, they have a flexible shaft, so a hand held drill can be used, but I still say they are a little to big.
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 12:28 am
by Hugz
I was thinking along the same lines. The stones will be struggling to be parallel.
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 1:22 am
by Niander101
I use one of these someone slagged me off for using it in a small cordless drill but its good as doesn't spin too fast and is reversible
so I use it one direction for say 5 seconds then reverse direction for another 5 seconds. Will tidy up a bore or if a new piston or rings are fitted
to help bed them in.
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:07 am
by 1650bullet
Good to use Mr Hugz. But to big to use for the 40 series blocks (Wont fit in) Also must be carefull when honing a 102 block that you dont bottom out and hit the end of the combustion chamber part, you will smash the stones apart and could scratch the bore badly. Cordless drills work fine. Honing out a seagull bore brings them to life somehow

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Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 3:09 am
by 1650bullet
1650bullet wrote:Good to use Mr Hugz. But to big to use for the 40 series blocks (Wont fit in) Also must be carefull when honing a 102 block that you dont bottom out and hit the end of the combustion chamber part, you will smash the stones apart and could scratch the bore badly. Cordless drills work fine. Honing out a seagull bore brings them to life somehow

.
Ps: I use WD-40 as a lubricant to keep the block and moving parts wet as im honing.
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Fri Mar 29, 2013 2:26 pm
by spiderg
Hi guys, just thought I'd mention, these tools can be bought in various sizes. I bought one and found it too big but got a small one and it's ideal for all sizes of bores. Quite cheap to buy from an online tool shop.
Gerard
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 1:08 pm
by Donald A
i found the one in a nice plastic box from Sealey to be great - it's the Cylinder Hone Kit 4 in 1 (comes with different sizes of abrasive tongs) - see sealey.co.uk - for £sterling 44.94 including VAT Not sure about availability in Australia, but presumably there is something equivalent there.
Donald A
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 3:08 am
by atoyot
Hugz, you might want to try a brake cylinder hone rather than a regular combustion cylinder hone. Same deal, smaller size. One like these, that span 32 - 89 mm, and puts your 58mm right about in the middle.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HORIZON-Disc ... 3f1040af32
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BRAKE-CYLIND ... 2eae8d6071
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:24 am
by Chilli Dog
I brought some bead hones from the states Huggy .
Looking to optimise a seagull may be considered a fruitless exercise by some . I figure a reasonable place to start is from each end of the drive shaft and work your way to the middle , so I'm at this point .
At having procured a ball hone , as opposed to a standard tri blade type , I'm pleased with my first try .
No cross hatching is evident and this is probably due to to me having the devalt cordless on too higher speed but it's even and I rotated the hone in both directions for about 15 seconds each . I'm just trying to create a good surface that will hold oil and allow my new rings to seat . Removing the existing mirror surface but leaving as much of the bore material intact . This is not something I think you'd need to do often as seagulls don't wear much when run at 10:1 anyway . I believe an advantage of this type of hone is the slight radius it imparts on the a edge of the bore ports . Some tuners believe this makes you less likely to pick up a ring and improves gas transfer others think it mucks gas flow . Take your pick .
I'm just trying to get the best seal between piston and bore at the lowest friction cost .
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:29 am
by Chilli Dog
I think I have a spare one in the shed .this is how it turned out for me. I got mine here.
http://www.enginehones.com/214180sc.html
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:43 am
by Horsley-Anarak
I use the same type, also mine from the states.
But was advised by the UK distributor, after explaining exactly what a Seagull outboard was that I should use 120 grit.
Works very well and is quick.
Make sure you give it a good wash after honing.
H-A
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:55 am
by Collector Inspector
I have always used a Flex Hone, anything I build including fluid drives.
B
Re: Cylinder honing..
Posted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 10:21 am
by charlesp
Those American bead ones are exactly the type used by British Seagull's repairs department.