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A cleaner way to run a seagull?
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 10:52 am
by Mark
Is there one? I was just wondering whether anyone had tried fully synthetic or bio TC-W3, and if so, what were the results? Less smoke? And where do you get it? (uk)
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 1:18 pm
by 40TPI
Castrol Aqua Race 2T, intended for jetski use, is claimed fully synthetic. Sourced from local Motorserv car parts warehouse as the only type they had that wasn't ordinary lawnmower oil. Cost about 8.75 GBP /litre. I'm sure it will be at Halfords! Run at 10:1 on a Forty + with original carb needle I found it virtually smokeless on an hours run a couple of weeks back. A heck of a sight less smokey and choking compared to my McCulloch chain saw running at 40:1. Then again I don't run forward at 4mph up wind of the chain saw along the Grand Union towpath so something of an unfair comparison.... ....
It still leaves the usual mess of unburnt oil and oil/water emulsion in the exhaust pipe which slowly oozes out when standing after use...... so no cleaner there. I don't see that ever changing; a two stroke is a two stroke. For me the most important gain from this type of oil is the lowering of combustion chamber carbon deposits; particularly deposits on the rings. Seagull de-cokes are unwelcome events.
Synthetic Lube
Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2007 6:10 pm
by Charles UK
I use it in almost all of my Seagulls, unless I think because of age they need more oil then I use quicksilver.
I use whatever they have for watercooled 2 strokes in my local motorcycle shop as they tend to be more viscous, the internals of these motors are as clean as when I first assembled them.
Except for my race 170 which with around 150lbs compression & 6000+ revs has black marks on the top of the piston to show where the transfer ports flow is going.
What most impresses me it the instructions on the container saying "do not use if running in motor as it will not allow the rings ti bed in".
A Cleaner way to run a Seagull?
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 3:30 pm
by Donald A
So (apart from less smoke) what makes this oil better for the engine than the Castrol Outboard 2T, which is the TC-W3 oil made by the same manufacturer, for £1 cheaper per litre?
Donald A
Posted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 8:57 pm
by Charles UK
Technically I don't know, all I know is that it's very difficult to burn & that if it won't allow rings to bed in, so it must resist wear better than TCW3 so I use that for running in.
When you've spent as much time as I have on my 170, modifing, machining, redesigning & rebuilding numerous times, you tend to treat it like a new girlfriend, only the best is good enough.
But like a new girlfriend every time I give it the full treatment something goes wrong.
2 broken crankshafts, seized bearings, 1 wrecked piston & a snapped in half leg.
So please don't take me for an expert! but when it's singing it will better 20 knots.
Oils
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 1:32 pm
by Donald A
Thanks for that - I'm finding my nearest supplier right away!
It reminds me of my research into getting SEA 140 - I found a product called Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil (see redlineoil.com) which is supposed to be incredibly good in resisting the pressure in between the surfaces of bearings generally. Unfortunately I also found how much it cost, so that was the end of that - I now use 140.
Regards
Donald A
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 1:45 pm
by mrdraddy
modern synthetic oil has more "lubricty"-ie: its oiler if you like and allows closer tolerences of moving parts,most high performance 2 strokes will quickly seize if its not used.It also has has detergents added that prevent deposits forming.
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 3:47 pm
by Charles UK
Sorry I'm not saying synthetic is the answer to a maiden's prayer.
It's just that in anything I feel is precious I don't want to damage anything.
In the average Century or 40+ that gets used 15 times a year, TCW 3 is perfect if you don't mind a little smoke, always move up wind & that won't be a problem.
I’m somewhat skeptical ..... Re: Oils
Posted: Sat Mar 03, 2007 4:32 pm
by Colin
Donald A wrote:...of my research into getting SEA 140 - I found a product called Redline Heavy Shockproof Gear Oil (see redlineoil.com) which is supposed to be incredibly good in resisting the pressure in between the surfaces of bearings generally. Unfortunately I also found how much it cost, so that was the end of that - I now use 140.
Regards
Donald A
Some months ago on this site (please see message
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/FO ... ht=redline )
I emailed Redline asking them about the use of their oil in Seagulls. They replied making a claims about the oil and its use in Seagulls; I requested data that would back up their claims, but to date I’ve not received a reply.