Saving Old Seagulls

It has an amal inlet so shouldn't have the usual letters saying British Silver Seagull

OK let's press the reverse button















Between those two pictures it is missing one which was never taken. The cracks were widened with a dremel grinding wheel in order the filler to be more stable when applied.

You have just answered your own Question. I was almost going to say that the lettering has been faced of. Fair bit of prep gone into that cyl there thats for sure. 102 silver century.

Yep i thought someone may have ground off the words also
Think youll get alot round here thinking that was a scrap block!
so you didnt weld it then?

Have to agree with Niander here. That is, in my view, a scrap block. There are cracks there which communicate; a sharp rap with a very small hammer may result in whole lumps of water jacket wall detaching from the rest of the block.

You have obviously invested quite a lot of time in repairing this block but I’d be very surprised if it will hold water for long if you intend to use this motor. The expansion and contraction of the cracks in the cast iron will inevitably cause cracking in the filler, especially where close to the exhaust outlet.
I have seen cracked cast iron cylinders successfully repaired with silver solder but welding or replacement would seem the best option here.

My race engine block is very similar, I repaired that with epoxy.

It has lasted well and has won races, it must be four years since I repaired it.

If the rust is removed from the water passages, and the area correctly prepared, then it will give you a good few seasons use whilst you find a better replacement.

What it won't do is get rid of the exhaust stub problem, that will kill most centuries in the years to come.

H-A

I have 2 silver Century cylinders that I've repaired with epoxy, to repair a missing part I fill the water jacket with candle wax, without getting it over the edges that are to be repaired, carve it to shape then cast epoxy.

I test it and the water flow is very very satisfying. The exhaust problem does exist. I remove a piece of the block at the point of the blind chamber and fill it with epoxy. The material I used is belzona 1111, quite promising. A friend give me a quantity as it is rather expensive. He has access to it as it is used in his work. With this material cracked cylinders are cured while a ship is en route. Of course it is an experiment. Time will show if it will last.

Video on the way..

I should have said "crappy video on the way". It's too dark I am sorry. But you can see the water coming out at a point.
The waterways even if it was quite tricky I cleaned them. The area was rasped and cleaned before the epoxy.
The exhaust outlet I know that it will be the reason for this block to crack unrepairable.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wWqOIbPc ... e=youtu.be

It is a low pressure cooling system anyway

Nice neat repair job! It will be interesting to see what happens after a few hot/cold cycles.

Oyster 49 wrote:Nice neat repair job! It will be interesting to see what happens after a few hot/cold cycles.

Thanks, 1000 grit wet&dry
I hope to last for a while. On the test, maybe because of the electric water pump and low revs the block didn't get even hot.

It was nine o'clock and I have put the exhaust on. If it would be 10 o'clock without the exhaust that would be a problem