Saving Old Seagulls

Is it a crime to replace the original (leaky) fuel tap by a motorbike tap from the same era? The point is: my tap leaks. Not a lot, but always. Sometimes it leakes a little less, sometimes a little more.
And, oh no, I don't care for the loss of expensive petroil, and I don't even care for the environmental issues, because it is only a drop in the ocean. But what I do care for is the image of my trusty Seagull, and for the angry looks by all those who are watching.
Because every tiny drop of fuel leaked creates a massive colourful spot on the water, giving the impression that his is an engine saved from the Torry Canion. It's really embarassing.
I tried the boiling water trick: it helps, but doesn't cure, I creatively used teflon tape, with the same result: it helps, but no for the full 100%.
I've been looking around for a replacement and found a company that offers brand new taps for classic motorbikes, complete with reserve, for around 15 - 20 Euros. That's a Tenner for the British. A small investment for saving a Seagull's honour.
One more question before I will commit this crime of treason: can anyone please confirm that the threat on the tank end of the tap is 1/4" ?
Thanks.

On the other hand you could ask John on this site if he has a new cork. When fitted this will render your old original tap 100% leakproof.

If he can't help, then I am sure there's someone on these boards that can.

Here is an alternative idea for a “cureâ€

THe tap is a "standard" British motorbike fuel fitting, IIRC, which is different than a standard 1/4 inch tap though....I looked for this info using search as I recall it has been discussed here, but could not find. Perhaps the original posters can chime in or point to the FAQs?

Thank you all for your comments and ideas.
I think changing the tap to a motorbike one has the advantage of having a 'reserve' on the tank, as well as being easier to visually check if the fuel tap is open of shut. (a lick of bright paint on one side of the lever can do miracles)
The O-ring repair is similar in what I did with the Teflon-tape: it is a dodgy repair that more or less works...
As for the original tap: I simply don't like it, sorry.
Will check with the IIRC as mentioned (never heard of it before)

I asked about the tank outlet thread type in an old post 2002/2003? I can’t get to pull up. I thought I had printed it out – no luck finding that post from John. If I remember, the reply I got was - the threads on the fuel tap were ¼ British Standard Pipe. I was looking for a plug (in USA) to attempt a tank dent removal system with hydraulic pressure. I ended up using a broken fuel tap I rigged to work. This system worked within limits, as was witnessed by others who thought of the same thing and posted their results on the old forum. Too much pressure = banana shaped tank – end cap dents are still best dealt with by the saw-off, pound out and solder fix as listed on SOS. At least that’s what I found. Fuel tap corks are an easy fix and John ships them fast. I bought one and used it as a sample. I made a simple screw/washer jig for my drill and can turn them out of old Champaign corks in no time now with a file and sandpaper. I know they are cheap, but hey – fun is fun and turning something thought useless into a boat/motor part is what most people that sail/restore old motors or boats are about. I tried the o-ring fix on one motor and it worked great, but cost almost as much as a new cork. Three years on and it still doesn’t leak, but limited use of that motor could be helping the no leakage deal.
Fair Winds,
D.

Hyphose (in the UK) can supply adapters that will allow the use of a manual hydraulic pump directly into the fuel tap threads.

If you go down this route witha 102 tank you'll be OK provided you don't overcook the pressure. If you overpressurize then the cylindrical central section will inflate like a barrel.

With a Century oval type you'll have to make a jig to support the central section flats, and contrive a way to also retain the end caps - or they'll blow out too.

Filling the tank with water, and the pump with hydraulic fluid will save you a fortune in fluid. Best to use one of tholder alloy fuel caps, wound on tight with a new gasket.

I cannot see any good reason to use anything other than a new cork in a fuel tap - most of them last years, they cost pence, they're easily available...

Charles,
I agree on the cork fix. Simple is better and they are inexpensive. I only have one - 102 - as they are hard to find in the U.S. The fuel tank is in wonderful shape. I’m so; grateful to have found the one I own. I won’t tell you what I’d give to have wartime 102 with all the brass fitting’s or let again a Marston!!! I search everywhere here! One will turn up, so I look and wait! I did a little tap and die work to make my own fitting as I didn’t have a source like Hypose when I first tried the hydraulic fix for tanks. I have a free source of expired shelf-life hydraulic fluid/which is fine for this purpose. It’s cheaper than water as they are giving it away to avoid disposal costs. I would use a round brass tank on any Seagull if I could find them. Oval tanks are beautiful, but round tanks are just plain sexy. Steel tanks are the worst rust buckets of the salt water use Seagull world. I have six steel tanks and can only save two - maybe only one. None had exterior dents – and beautiful to less than poor decals - go figure? So a tank change will be another bitsa motor should I sell one. I bought a box of old beat up oval tanks five years ago that have turned out to have been a wonderful deal in my fixing motors.
D.

I bought a new cork from John a week or so ago, and it worked perfectly. Only a few quid, and would seem the obvious solution to me, even with postage.