Saving Old Seagulls

Hey guys great website , I have owned a seagull for many years and just recently I came across 5 of them in the rubbish and I have started pulling them to bits so I can restore them , one of them started first pull after I gave it a good clean and reset the points , the others were seized but ive managed to free them up and their now in bits ,
The first one im working on is a 102 model TC 72117 which ive stripped down and repainted the block ,

What I need to know is at what stage should the rings be replaced and the bore deglazed , is there a min/max tolerance for the bore and /or rings

Also at what stage do you replace the brass sleeves for the crank shaft and piston rod

The 102 I am doing now started first pull and seemed to run great but ive noticed the brass sleeves looked a bit scratched .
I know i should probably buy a manual but that may be a little while off yet as funds a low at the moment so thought I would ask on here .

I live next to the waikato so next year im hoping to race in the seagull race well maybe put put put anyway

Cheers

Welcome Sylvester, Graham at Simply Seagulls is a great source of parts here in NZ, his prices are extremely reasonable. The 102 is a good motor to start with. What are the other engines? What part of the Waikato do you live at?

Yes im aware of simply seagulls I have bought several springs and other stuff of them ,I think ill buy a manual soon seen as I have 6 seagulls now , I am close to the elbow .
The other engines are 3 LLS models and a funny one with a gold top and different ignition , ill try and post a few pics , there all in bits at moment though , I think ill get 5 good ones out of them , but I might be lacking some brackets .

Also one more question or two
how do you remove the magnets (the one's the ignition module is sandwedged between ) I see one screw on either side and is the other one on each side a stud (how on earth do you get that out with vise grips maybe ? )
So far with tips from this forum ive removed everything except the ingnition from the top cover (maybe I should leave it)

another question - on the silver century I had that was seized my old man smashed the carb inlet tube off trying to separate the block from the crankcase
Whats a good way to fix this brazing maybe ?

Any recommendations for cleaning the aluminium , dishwashing liquid and scotch brite ? , petrol ?

Here's a few picture's of my seagull's

Those to propellers look similar or maybe the same as mine.


Mine are from two silver century. The big one is from a clutched gearbox 4:1 reduction and the small one from a direct gearbox. That else would you like to know.

The block I believe it can be fixed by welding from someone experienced.

Which one is the fastest

What hull are you pushing?

I think the small one as the gearbox of the big one has high reduction ratio (4:1). If reduction ratio is 3:1 or 2.5:1 it is supposed to go faster. But all seagull outboard were designed to push heavy boats, not go fast light crafts.

I just use my seagulls on a 10ft - 12ft dingy , so I guess the smaller one would be suitable , anyone have any spec's for these gearboxes showing reccomended hulls sizes
also another Q - I have lots of high temp engine paint will this be suitable for the tank and prop housing , I have lots of black and silver left over .

Sylvester wrote:I just use my seagulls on a 10ft - 12ft dingy , so I guess the smaller one would be suitable , anyone have any spec's for these gearboxes showing reccomended hulls sizes
also another Q - I have lots of high temp engine paint will this be suitable for the tank and prop housing , I have lots of black and silver left over .

A century model 100 (The one on the left) is ideal for a 10-12ft dingy. They have plenty of grunt to push you around, and if need be tow other vessels of the same size back home if they are in a bit of trouble. Remember. at full throttle the engine should only see 3500-3700rpm. Seagulls are like an electric troll motor. They produce Thrust, Not Propulsion. Dont think a british seagull will get your boat up on the plan at full throttle, it wont happen. There like a pocket size tug-boat. The one on the right in that picture is commonly known as a barge pusher i think, And thats what they do.

The one on the right is a Century Plus.

The term 'Barge Pusher' refers to the heavy duty versions of the 102. AHC, THC etc.

Easiest way to fix broken intake stub is to get another block from Graham at simply seagulls. He has reasonable ones at good prices. It is possible to machine a new stub up and drill and fit it to the barrel. But will be never as good as original.

OK thanks guys as I only use a dingy sounds like I won't be needing this larger prop so might have to sell it on .

question from before
I have lots of high temp engine paint will this be suitable for the tank and prop housing , I have lots of black and silver left over .

also silly me didn't read the instructions properly and now I have removed the drive-shaft housing from the exhaust flange (after many hours of heating and smashing )
so what's a good way to fit them back together all aligned .

Thanks
sylvester