Saving Old Seagulls

I am restoring a Sea Gull LS from 1950's. Can anyone tell me the correct fuel tube ? Was it see through plastic, "U" shape nickel ed copper, or a complete circle nickel ed copper ( as on FV and FVP) ?
Was the brass tank plain ended in the 1950's? Not embossed with the sea Gull name? Thanks

I have two of these, one has a circled plated fuel pipe, the other - later one - is a 'U'

The earlier one has a plain ended tank that is at first glance a standard oval-ended shape, but on examination it's different. It's got a bigger radius round the ends, it's a little smaller if I recall correctly.

Hi
My LS is original the fuel pipe is "U" shape copper/nickel and the tank has plane ends . Good luck with your restoration my problem is getting it to start (see "Another eBay Wonder )

To Both replies, Thank you very much for the information. Tricky-Dicky: I too have had very frustrating times getting one to run. The thumb compression gauge is not very good at telling the real situation. I find if ANY outboard has less than 60 PSI compression by a dial gauge, it will either not start or be VERY hard starting. THAT Is without an "OIL compression - Booster" Cheers.

British Seagull's Centurys & 102s will start quite normally down to about 50 lbs & run ok at 45 lbs on a screwin type compression gauge, if yours starts ok but reads lower on your gauge don't panic, these are not laboratory instruments.

These outboards were designed when the fuel octane rating, pre & during the war was in the low 70s.

Charles, Yes, I guess "Agricultural engines" like Seagulls will tolerate lower compressions and still go. Guess that is why they are so loved. Compression was just one more possibility to look at. Cheers, Art