HI there
Have a 78 40 plus with a BIng Carb
Last time I was out it stuck open at about 3/4 throttle!
what fun! slowed it down approaching the dock by choking it with my hand, stopped it the same way
Is it common for the cables to get siezed up ? I checked the piston and shot some carb cleaner in there
it seems to be moving more now but still won't close all the way(seems to be the cable)
Also any good advice on cleaning these carbs?
Thanks
Bing Carbs
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Bing Carbs
If attacked by a group of clowns
Go for the juggler!
Go for the juggler!
Re: Bing Carbs
There's nothing fundimentally different from the cable operation between the Bing and the Villers carb units other than the way the cables attach to the moveable piston. Unless you've got a mess of grit somewhere in the piston chamber locking up the movement, it's going to be the cable (or a really well-rotted out lever assembly).
To test the theory, unscrew the retaining cap that holds the piston/spring/cable assembly into the top of the Bing carb. After removing the piston assembly from the carb, try moving your thumb throttle lever. The cable with the piston and cap etc. at the other end of the throttle cable sheath ought to just follow along as if it was a well-maintained bicycle brake cable. Assuming that there's some meaningful resistance to movement, try sliding just the cable sheath along the cable line, back and forth for the 10-15mm of slack wire available. If that's smoth, then the lever's possibly at fault. If there's harsh resistance, then it's the cable.
One could try dribbling some oil down the inner line so that it runs into the sheath, and see if it frees up with a little workout. My history with bike cables suggests that by the time they're hard to operate, they're ready to be swapped out with new.
I've replaced one of mine with a cycle brake cable and it works fine. Not everyone's going to want to try that, though, since it involved some light filing of an existing, prepared cable end & some soldering on the other. The material was also in hand, too, so the price was right. Proper cables are available from John here at SOS. If you are so adventurous as to want to try the home-brew method, shoot me a PM.
To test the theory, unscrew the retaining cap that holds the piston/spring/cable assembly into the top of the Bing carb. After removing the piston assembly from the carb, try moving your thumb throttle lever. The cable with the piston and cap etc. at the other end of the throttle cable sheath ought to just follow along as if it was a well-maintained bicycle brake cable. Assuming that there's some meaningful resistance to movement, try sliding just the cable sheath along the cable line, back and forth for the 10-15mm of slack wire available. If that's smoth, then the lever's possibly at fault. If there's harsh resistance, then it's the cable.
One could try dribbling some oil down the inner line so that it runs into the sheath, and see if it frees up with a little workout. My history with bike cables suggests that by the time they're hard to operate, they're ready to be swapped out with new.
I've replaced one of mine with a cycle brake cable and it works fine. Not everyone's going to want to try that, though, since it involved some light filing of an existing, prepared cable end & some soldering on the other. The material was also in hand, too, so the price was right. Proper cables are available from John here at SOS. If you are so adventurous as to want to try the home-brew method, shoot me a PM.
There is nothing so useless as doing efficiently that which should not be done at all.
- Prof. Peter Drucker
- Prof. Peter Drucker