Saving Old Seagulls

Could someone who has used this method, give the specs on the rod they used [if any extra was required] when replacing tank ends after removing the dents. Also any helpful tips would be much appreciated. Such as how tight a fit is necessary and was the old brazing material removed leaving only a tinned surface. The rod I found with the lowest temp range [ 1190 F melt and 1275 F flow] was Silvaloy 18M [Wolverine] 18% Ag 75.75% Cu 6.25% P Thanks

As far as I'm led to believe it's simpler to solder the ends back on. If you check the site there's discussions on this.
Hope this helps.

I have checked the site FAQs, I have removed the end, and beaten the dents out. The search function does not appear to work, at least for me. After looking through well over 100 posts the right information would not present itself. I have no interest in cutting the ends of tanks off to repair them. Want to avoid regular solder if at all possible after all there must have been a reason that Seagull decided to use silver brazing to fasten the tank ends rather than solder, after all it is the more expensive method all round. Perhaps I missed something and there has been a ban on any info of this sort surfacing it almost appears so, if this is the case someone could PM me about it. Thanks Phil

Certainly no ban. I have to say that I toio have been singularly unsuccessful seaqrching for the relevant threads.

But it would appear that removing the ends is the most difficult part of the operation, whci I understand you have successfully accomplished.

If memory serves then I think we all agreed that the originals were silver solder rather than braze, but soft solder would do the job. Manufacturing is of course not the same aqs mending, and when originally manufactured the filler thread and tap fittings were applied at the same time, so maybe that's why swilver solder would be used for all of it.

I can tell you that soft solder to repair leaks etc was a factory approved method of repair provided the leak wasnt at the structural bits, such as fixing bolts, filler, fuel tap or supports.

Thanks Charles,

Yes the ends are off 2 tanks [200,000 btu propane torch and long screwdriver] and they have been pounded out and are awaiting replacement. Looks like I should assume everyone who has done this has reattached the ends with regular solder.

The recommendation in the information I have found for silver/copper soldering; requires fits of .001-.003, and does not recommend trying to heat to flow temp and resolder[silver solder] on a spot basis [ie it appears that means the whole area to be silver soldered, should be close to the flow temp when reattaching and spot heated only the little extra to get solder flow]

It appears those conditions would be quite difficult to establish outside a shop that was doing new fabrication or was setup for that sort of thing.

Unless someone who may have done it successfully would be willing to share their methods.