Saving Old Seagulls

Was that Llhangorse reservoir by any chance?

This is my local haunt at just over 600 acres, a boat is an absolute must as they dont allow ANY bank fishing anywhere around the reservoir.
My best pike so far goes just over 11lb on dead bait from here.
I'd love to give a fly a go and see what i can stir up from the deep! (ever tried for carp with a floating dog biscuit on the fly? what a laugh that is!)

Interestingly there are the odd brownie lurking about but tend to be very elusive at the best of times.


Right then, back to seagulls.
Removing the flywheel nut on it's own wont have anything coming apart without you knowing it.
Check all the FAQ's before you get into this.
I had thought that you'd looked at the points already? Oh well, just makes things a bit easier with the flywheel removed so you can get in there to clean it.
Have a go at cleaning the magnets on the inside of the flywheel whilst you're there along with the coil cheeks. You'll probably find light surface rust on everything, just clean it all with some sandpaper before you put it back together. A little smidge of grease on the flywheel cam before you put the flywheel back into position.
20 thou clearence on the points and plug (0.50mm if you like metric measurements) give it a spin and see what happens!

Nice stand by the way, looks like you might get a couple more on there should you ever get the need to satisfy a craving for a "rack mate" for the featherweight!

Good luck with the fishing up north and watch out for the midges!

jon

I hear they got the Pike on a river, not sure which one though, I know they are Mid Wales and off to a Reservoir after Trout today
I meant I had checked the plug not the points (see I said I hadn't a clue )
the stand would hold another 2 seagulls. I may need more stands LOL
thanks again for helping Jon
Steve

Thanks Jon and everyone for the advice
taking off the nut went easy and inside was not too bad


then I cleaned off the bits of rust from inside the flywheel then removed all the debris with a cotton bud and a good blast of Air, next I took off the points cover,
First I checked the points gap, spot on 20 thou, I slipped a piece of wet and dry between the points and gave them a rub, I checked for dirt or rust with a piece of white card and it came back clean so a blast of air then after rechecking the points it all went back together with a dab of grease on the cam

I put the prop back on set the little screw to 1 1/2 turns down, put in a 10 to 1 mix I am using Smith and Allan tc-w3 oil and normal unleaded fuel and its running fine, a good flow of water with the water cutting out when the engine is just turning over, no racing or slowing, I can adjust the throttle and the engine revs as it should, the spark plug, I removed to have a look its kind of white so that means to lean, when I stop the engine its very hot, as it stops I am getting lots of steam from where the water drains
so I need a richer setting, off now to change the screw
anyone got any tips for me to try?

flyguy wrote: anyone got any tips for me to try?

Stick it on your boat and give it a run, If you are getting a pencil thick steady stream of water from the outlet, then there should be no problem.

H-A

screw out rich, screw in lean.
Amin again, about time I dad a proper one.

Keith, that's brilliant
I set the screw at 1 turn down and it ran fine until the fuel ran out
I took out the plug and it's no longer white, not wet or oily though



the engine isn't as hot either so I am going to stop tinkering with it
and get it on a boat as H-A suggests
thanks everyone you have helped me lots
I need to learn a lot more so I will be sticking around reading posts
hopefully not bothering you all with stupid questions
Steve

Too well I think I am on the look out for a 40 plus long shaft, (25/1mix) some of the boats I get to use are too high for this minus
2 more things I am planning, I cleaned out the tank but I still think it needs more work so I bought Caustic soda and some rubber gloves I will be filling the tank with that and soaking it for a couple of days, I just wonder if the cork on the tap will withstand the Caustic?
Then I read about bright shiny transom brackets and how to clean them up so a Caustic treatment for that too
Steve

Transom brackets i've been tinkering with for the last couple of days.
After a soak in the caustic solution, i rinse with plenty of water and let dry.
Then attack it with a wire brush and/or some rough sandpaper.
Finish off with your choice of metal polish and admire!

Yes that's the look I want, thanks for the instructions
further reading on here says Caustic soda will strip the paint off the tank, that doesn't sound good, so maybe not a great idea after all

If you leave too long in caustic soda metal goes black and is a shite to shine. Overnight dip and a wire brush on a drill works for me. Wish it did remove paint but haven't experienced that.

Thanks Hugs, Caustic soda is in the tank, I will be careful when I take it out not to get it on the paint, then tonight I will do the Transom

I have got this one working really well and I want to keep it in tip top condition
the only thing I can see that might need another clean is the Piston, I took out the spark plug and shone a really bright light inside and I can see lots of oily deposits
I am not going to take it apart but I wonder if I can clean up the inside by filling it with carb cleaner and letting it soak for a while
Will doing this do any good?
or is there no point in messing around now that its running nice and fine?

This may be a dumb question, but I put the socket on the flywheel nut, and the whole thing turns, I am not strong enough to hold the whirling thang steady whilst turning the nut. How do you block the wheel from turning, please???