Saving Old Seagulls

1950's handbook says D16 but all the cylinders are tapped for a 18mm 3/4" reach plug, the nearest you can currently buy is the KLG ML 50 at 2/3".

Pre war they probably ran a Champion metric long 9 or the Lodge equivalent, CharlesP has done a lot more spark plug research.

Charles uk wrote: the nearest you can currently buy is the KLG ML 50 at 2/3".

I thought that plug had a 3/4" reach.

http://www.gsparkplug.com/shop/klg-ml50.html

H-A

You've rebuilt that engine in double quick time! What are you going to do with it?

I measured one H-A 0.66" but your right their site says 3/4", maybe I should have included the center electrode.

thanks for the comments, i had the engine running for 45 minutes today she started first pull thanks to oyster 49 for some technical assistance ( timing was way out ) she had a couple of water leaks but they are sorted now and she is a little smokey but i put that down to the fact that i got the petroil mix slightly wrong will have to be more accurate next time. many thanks to those who have helped.
As for the engines future, well i would like to install it in to a period vessel in keeping with its age but have no idea what it was used in ,any ideas it will be on the shelf for a while until i can find something to put it in. but for now its back to my P66 which will also be fired up tomorrow for the first time since rebuild

The tank is progressing well. It seems to have a very soft coating not unlike soft solder. The top and bottom are soldered to the centre section using soft solder, which makes it very difficult to avoid the joints running when trying to repair pin holes using solder! Luckily only one area has corroded. Once repaired and leak free I will fill it with a caustic solution for a few days.

Nice job oyster 49, my tank had a leak on the top inner curve above the fuel tap cause by a bad solder repair.managed to repair it after more soft solder fell out during resoldering.

Easy indexing for Brit block.

B

More progress, after finishing the repairs the tank is leak free. First coats of etch primer then filler primer. Leave for a day flat and two more coats of filler primer before it's ready for colour. That reminds me I've not found a decent colour match yet, it might have to be a metallic finish to best match the blue/grey enamel.

Really looking forward to seeing
this engine together!

when you cleaned the inside out (caustic soda ) what mixture did you use. ?

I normally put a couple of pints of water in then maybe half a mug of caustic soda, rinse around until it is mixed then fill the remainder of the tank. Then leave it for a few days.If it is mixed in a strongish solution the tank will get warm.

Thanks for the info. do you seal the tank with anything afterwards to prevent the rust from re accuring ?