Saving Old Seagulls

Collector Inspector wrote:3 Gulls on a transom?

HANDFUL Aye?

B

not so bad

H-A

Wow those flapping coat tails and flywheels, sorry kids santa wont be coming this year, bit of grafting to get done.

No handfull if you fix 2 & steer one!

B

Well gentlemen, I finally got time to make a little video of the old dear running!!!

Remember this is the 1964 Forty Plus SPJ that I put OMC coil on a Villiers core and coil laminates.

Question: What are the running temps on this motor?

I got 220F flat on the cylinder head near the spark plug. Is this area cooled by water?

I got 144F on the side of the powerhead and near the crankcase.

Are these normal temps?? It's about 90F outside today



Just click on the pictures for the video to play.

A rabbit!

Are they wild in urban areas?

Hugz wrote:A rabbit!

Are they wild in urban areas?

Yes, they have a lot of rabbits in our neighborhoods. Especially during the dry times. The communities have good pet control, so nothing really bothers them.

David

Great to see it running well! Surprised you have the part already!

The head has no water passages, but if there is a build up of stuff in the water jacket area, heat conduction away from the head might not be as fast. Some folks like to clean the water jacket when they get the motor, can't remember if you said it was a salt water motor or not. Even so a fresh water motor can have lime and mud as well as rust partially clogging the water jacket passages. The water flow looked a little low, but I think the prop was on, and long shaft motors tend to not pump as well as short shaft motors.

The exit water should show about a 20-30 F temperature rise from what you have in the bucket when it is producing a good flow, the water will be quite hot at first when rev'd up if it has idled with no water flow for quite a while. Like 2-3 minutes.

Was it a long shaft? To assess the water flow when run in a bucket, they usually recommend taking the prop off which gives similar results to what you might see on a boat.

I found a new coil and measured the dia and it was smaller than the ones I tried, looks to be about 43.8 mm with a cheapo plastic caliper. Will measure with a proper caliper and get back with that measurement.

You must remove the prop when running a direct drive in a tub. Turbulence from the prop will prevent pick up.

You must remove the prop when running a direct drive in a tub

I have never removed a prop to run a motor in a water butt or tank.

Phil, the motor is a long shaft. The previous owner did not know its history. He purchase a sailboat some years back and the motor was on it. He stated he never used the motor. He purchased the boat on a fresh water lake.

Thanks guys for the suggestion about the removing the prop when testing in a bucket. I remember reading an article about that.


Have any of you tried the extended water tube method to improve water flow a idle or low speeds?

Here is a video of someone doing that.

http://youtu.be/cfjpVoazL2Q

Keith.P wrote:

You must remove the prop when running a direct drive in a tub

I have never removed a prop to run a motor in a water butt or tank.

I have never removed a prop to run a motor in a water butt or tank.

H-A

Seems to me most of them pump just fine with the prop on. I'm using half of a 205 liter barrel. ( 55 US Gal. 45 Imp. gal.)
I suppose it might be dicey with a 23 liter pail.

Try it with a clutched seagull. Run with it in gear and out and see the difference in flow.