Saving Old Seagulls

Ok Stelios...ill also send you a metal transom half-clamp job to replace the plastic one ...plenty of these around SD crankcases are harder to find but luckyly i had 1 pair

SD 12922. for the number

It also has a slot where the magneto screw locates looks machined

but generally they are in much better condition

those others have been abused poor things

Couldn't have been happier!

In the meantime I unscrewed easily with the assist of my torch (a small dremel one) the tiller stud, the two main studs and three smaller one that holds the block.
Woohoo heat does the work!

By the way, are those notches on the bearing normal? I though it may have been there for better lubrication but..?

SD's never had the dimple for the magneto base plate, unless they had been retro fitted with the later ignition.

They also had the cylinder retaining studs sticking out of the 4 x 1/4 BSF tapped holes, the transfer port notch was also bigger.

Ok slot must of been filed anyway thing is you can see where the screw goes for the timing so thats ok
tiller stud was the main thing as it saves on postage!

To tell you the truth I prefer a crankcase with dimple as I won't have to search for the correct timing, even if it is made after it leave the factory.

Now about the con rod what do you think? Is it bend? When I ran the engine I didn't understand anything going wrong.



Charles uk, I didn't understand what the transfer port notch is. If anyone could help..

And something else. I have noticed that there is a grease nipple on the water housing. As I can understand this is for the sae 140 to lubricate the bearing at the end of the drive shaft housing. The hole of the drive shaft housing is there, but the hole of the bearing is in a irrelevant point so by using this grease nipple sae 140 will never reach its destination. Should I drill the bearing to fix that? Should I take it out and fit it to the correct possition (Ouch, too risky I think) or should I just leave it as is and before assembling add some sae 140 in another way?

Yes that conrod looks bent, I would have a look at the crank if I was you, and make sure that runs true.

H-A

What happened to the original magneto? Was it unserviceable? There are pictures posted here of the same engine with its original magneto fitted and JM number listed.

I also have a pair of SD crank cases if needed.

Yes unserviceable.
the 140 oil goes in the gearbox 2 bolts behind the prop
end cap and it comes off easy

I also have a pair of SD crank cases if needed.[/quote]

Ok he can decide what SD number he wants

i can pay postage to send whatever

but need to know as im striping a powerhead to get the cases

I had the understanding that SD's originally ran on heavier viscosity oil ie something around 270. Closer to grease than oil. Many of us mix 140 and grease together to achieve the consistency. Fortunately, in Australia we have Penrite runny grease. http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.p ... oducts=107

There is information on the main SOS page right under pics of my EDL http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/i_ ... models.htm

Then there is the issue of oils that are water soluble ie the suggestion of using stern gland grease.

Thanks about the info.
About the con rod could I use one of an AD?

Some progress...



Derusting, polishing. If I insist on polishing the upper plate the letters will fade, unscrewing all back plate's screws and nuts but the coil couldn't be removed. Any ideas?

unscrewing all back plate's screws and nuts but the coil couldn't be removed. Any ideas?


Just leave it on there Stelios. If you have no reason to remove it just leave it there.

Isn't there a small screw in the cheeks to stop the coil rotating ?

I didn't locate that screw but I will leave it there
Any ideas about the AD conrod and a way to remove the piston? I don't see the usual way of locking the piston here.
I have also notice that line on the crankshaft. Should I worry about that or it is normal? When I scratch it with my nail I can feel it.