Little Forty

Post by **RickUK** » Sun Dec 04, 2016 2:07 pm

Just a caveat to anyone who gets the drive tube re-plated. I have had a few done, and used to supply a sketch of the tube to the platers, emphasising that the lower 2.1/2 inches should not be linished (abrasive belted), as this operation prior to plating can easily take too much metal off the diameter, to the extent that that it is no longer an interference fit in the water pump casting.

headdownarseup · Post by **headdownarseup** » Sun Dec 04, 2016 10:25 pm

Interesting.
All this mention of re-chroming i thought i'd mention some of the quotes i was getting from firms local to me here in Bristol.
£90 (provided i could get the part in as part of a batch of other parts for re-chroming)
£120 straight off the bat, no ifs buts or ands about it.
£75 with a 6 week turn around

I think it sounds pretty expensive just to do 1 drive leg, let alone any other parts that need re-plating.
Still, i'll keep looking around for a better quote.

Jon

Oyster 49 · Post by **Oyster 49** » Sun Dec 04, 2016 10:54 pm

Talk to Stuart at Classic Seagulls.

flyguy · Post by **flyguy** » Sun Dec 04, 2016 11:07 pm

I've been working on this today and have decided it looks great the way it is, the tank is in great shape for it's age and with the rust off the leg and a bit of a polish on the gear box I am happy with it
I have got what looks like a very good spark but I can't get it to fire, I am pretty sure it has to be down to fuel, the Carb has been stripped down and cleaned , the points are shining as is the plug, I don't think I've missed anything but something is stopping it from firing, back to the drawing board in the morning, I can't thank you enough for all the help
Steve

flyguy · Post by **flyguy** » Sun Dec 04, 2016 11:11 pm

https://youtu.be/5wF-zV4KjfU

flyguy · Post by **flyguy** » Sun Dec 04, 2016 11:48 pm

Just a thought,

with the plug out and the carb connected, should I be able to see fuel come out of the piston chamber when I pull the rope?
am I right in thinking that would tell me fuel was getting through?
off to bed now,

no more pestering for tonight

Collector Inspector · Post by **Collector Inspector** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 8:54 am

RickUK wrote:Just a caveat to anyone who gets the drive tube re-plated. I have had a few done, and used to supply a sketch of the tube to the platers, emphasising that the lower 2.1/2 inches should not be linished (abrasive belted), as this operation prior to plating can easily take too much metal off the diameter, to the extent that that it is no longer an interference fit in the water pump casting.

I fell fowl of "Deaf Ears" when I stressed that requirement.

http://www.classiccargurus.com.au/Vinci_Chrome

I ended up using brass shim stock to get the clamping required. You can not see the shim stock but I know it is there.

I use the motor very rarely and check it every time..........

Also there are rust pits coming through....... I think that they chromed over the thing in one hit. No Cu or Ni or....even a care at all.

Never going back to Vinci Chrome again.............too arrogant!

BnC[/color]

flyguy · Post by **flyguy** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 4:57 pm

Minus 4c this morning

so I took the Carb indoors, stripped it down took the brass jets out, nothing wrong as far as I could see, I did wonder if the retaining screw on the outside of the Carb was located in the hole rather than the cut-out but no, it was in the right place, I blasted the lot with carb cleaner again and cleaned up everything I can see, Then as it warmed up to 0c I rechecked the points gap, it is 20 thou, I set the spark plug to 20 thou, the spark looks fine its a bright blue, I would hate to get a belt off it.

I even went and bought new fuel, when I got home the wheely bin was free of ice so, I tried again, and again, and again ....
nothing, I am well and truly stuck!
Oh and the ice has returned

Keith.P · Post by **Keith.P** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 5:42 pm

You have a spark, is it sparking at the right time?
Are you getting fuel to the plug?
Is it cold out?

flyguy · Post by **flyguy** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 6:09 pm

Keith.P wrote:You have a spark, is it sparking at the right time?
Are you getting fuel to the plug?
Is it cold out?

Hi Keith

1/ I don't know how to tell, I thought the timing was fixed
2/ I don't know and I don't know how to check, I looked for signs of fuel coming out the spark plug hole when I pulled the rope
3/ oh yes, never got above 2c here today

I wondered about the cold but I expected it to at least fire

Keith.P · Post by **Keith.P** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 6:23 pm

When you get time, with the spark plug in, Is it getting wet with fuel, after a hand full of pulls.
I gather you replaced the ignition, did you remove and replace the ignition stator plate ?

Oyster 49 · Post by **Oyster 49** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 7:13 pm

Back to basics for a few checks, as follows:
1. Are the points opening and at the correct time, ie when the piston is approaching top dead centre?
2. Is fuel getting through to the carb enough to fill the bowl? Make sure the fuel pipe is not blocked. Is the tap allowing fuel through?
3. Many villiers carbs have a hole in the float bowl, I can't quite see if yours has this, the idea is you press and hold the carb tickler until fuel is coming out of the little hole, this primes the carb to ensure there is plenty of fuel to start the engine.

Best of luck.

flyguy · Post by **flyguy** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 7:54 pm

Oyster 49 wrote:Back to basics for a few checks, as follows:
1. Are the points opening and at the correct time, ie when the piston is approaching top dead centre?
2. Is fuel getting through to the carb enough to fill the bowl? Make sure the fuel pipe is not blocked. Is the tap allowing fuel through?
3. Many villiers carbs have a hole in the float bowl, I can't quite see if yours has this, the idea is you press and hold the carb tickler until fuel is coming out of the little hole, this primes the carb to ensure there is plenty of fuel to start the engine.
Best of luck.
cheeers for that Oyster, this Carb does have that hole and I know fuel is getting to the carb, I will check and see where the piston is when the points are closed and fully open.
I looked on FAQ's earlier and it mentions small screw that locates in a dimple on the upper crankcase, I have not noticed that on mine so I will check it out

Keith.P wrote:When you get time, with the spark plug in, Is it getting wet with fuel, after a hand full of pulls.
I gather you replaced the ignition, did you remove and replace the ignition stator plate ?

thanks Keith, I will check tomorrow and see if the plug is wet and yes I replaced the whole ignition stater plate

Keith.P · Post by **Keith.P** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 8:02 pm

As Oyster said, see it the points open just before the piston gets to the top, normally 45 degrees BTDC.
If I'm correct, only the early Villiers carbs had holes in the float bowls.

Hugz · Post by **Hugz** » Mon Dec 05, 2016 8:22 pm

Spray some WD40 into the air intake as you pull the rope. If you have any sort of spark you will get some form of pop and bang. It might even run

Saving Old Seagulls

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