Little Forty

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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

I meant to go get some strong caustic soda but ran out of time
so looking around her cleaning cupboard for oven cleaner I saw the bottle of "Bar Keepers Friend"
it smells like Vim (remember that stuff :shock: ) anyway I wanted to test its cleaning power so I stuck the thrust block in a glass of water added a few tablespoons of powder and let it sit, it has really cleaned everything, the brass bolts are a lot brighter as are the nuts and washers (I took those out after an hour) I'm going to leave the block and bolts overnight, Tomorrow I'm going to try it on the float bowl and maybe give the whole Carb a dunk,I think it will clean up the outside really well and I don't think it will damage the Aluminium like caustic does but I will watch
1965 40 - 1990 55 - 1954 - Little Forty -1986 EF
tambikeboy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by tambikeboy »

Be careful with that one Steve watch out for the seal around the float bowl i wouldn't be leaving it in too long check the ingredients of your stuff it sounds like it's caustic based china....
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Gannet
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Re: Little Forty

Post by Gannet »

I am with Charles and Adrian - unless you have a very good reason to remove the inlet compensator - leave it on.
If you really have to remove it, heat is very useful, not just to destroy the 'Loctite', but brass tends to expand with temperature.

Jeremy
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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

tambikeboy wrote:Be careful with that one Steve watch out for the seal around the float bowl i wouldn't be leaving it in too long check the ingredients of your stuff it sounds like it's caustic based china....
Thanks Tam I had a look and no mention of Caustic soda on the bottle so I took the seal off and dipped it, no sign of any reaction with the aluminum and it cleaned up the Carb body really well

Image

also cleaned all the crud out of the float bowl

Image

the original is on page 4 of this topic
1965 40 - 1990 55 - 1954 - Little Forty -1986 EF
tambikeboy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by tambikeboy »

Good job china now get the dremel into it all shiny. ...
Roll me up and smoke me when I die
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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

tambikeboy wrote:Good job china now get the dremel into it all shiny. ...
great idea, I tried a bit of wire wool but one of those wire drill bits will remove all the rust
I had a look and the chrome is almost all gone on the shaft, should I remove all the rust and paint it?
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Keith.P
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Re: Little Forty

Post by Keith.P »

prime it and paint it or get a better shaft.
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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

Keith.P wrote:prime it and paint it or get a better shaft.
thanks Keith, for now it will be a paint job, Hammerite is where I'm looking
picure below is just a dip and rinse

Image
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Keith.P
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Re: Little Forty

Post by Keith.P »

Yes, that's normally the best stuff to use, don't get a can, it's as thin as pi*%, water.
I did scan though you're pictures, I wish I Hadn't. :shock:
headdownarseup
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Re: Little Forty

Post by headdownarseup »

With any luck (and depending on our postal service) this little forty should be singing in the next few weeks. :P
Nudge nudge wink wink.

It's a time consuming task, but i like to use steel wool for cleaning aluminium parts along with a wire brush. The carb should come up quite well like this, although i think the original finish on these carbs was painted. If you decide on removing the inlet cowl from the carb, a little heat will help, so will a leather strap or an old belt from your trousers wrapped around a socket so you can use a ratchet to shift it. (oil filter removal tool with a steel band will work the same as long as it will clamp down that small)
Drive tubes on something as old as this nearly always will have some missing chrome. Par for the course with seagulls i'm afraid, although i have had some success using spray-on chrome effect paint. Not a very durable long term finish though. A good rub down with some "rip it to bits" sandpaper to get the bulk of the corrosion off the tube, then say a zinc primer (my favourite) then a few coats of your chosen paint over the top.
Alternatively re-chroming can work out to be eye- wateringly expensive, and depending on how good a job the platers end up doing can lead to some disappointment when it comes back.
Painting drive tubes is not such a bad way to go in my view, provided you can source a good colour to match the original finish. I've looked at various paints used for steel wheels on cars. Almost but not quite the right colour match but certainly a good durable finish which should last for quite a few years. Check to see if the paint is compatible with lacquers for that added shine. Some are, but a lot of wheel paints are'nt compatible with clear coats.
Hammerite smooth is ok (if a little bit on the grey side) but as a temporary solution just to tidy things up a bit it's not a bad choice. A good thing to remember with spray cans is to pre-heat the paint in a jug of warm water for 5 mins before you apply the paint, especially in colder temperatures along with a really good shake up. I've never had any problems using hammerite from a can before using this method. Little and often when you build up the layers of paint rather than just blast it on willy nilly. Leave for at least 24 hours before applying another coat.
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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

Keith.P wrote:Yes, that's normally the best stuff to use, don't get a can, it's as thin as pi*%, water.
I did scan though you're pictures, I wish I Hadn't. :shock:
I think the only shocking photo I have is one that shows what happens if you leave your phone lying around when away with some drunken Scotsmen
:oops:
1965 40 - 1990 55 - 1954 - Little Forty -1986 EF
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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

Thank you, Jon, I will let you know when it arrives, I have a few says off next week so with a bit of luck and probably a lot more questions I should have it running before Christmas, with all the great info and help from SOS I have learned a lot about Seagulls
1965 40 - 1990 55 - 1954 - Little Forty -1986 EF
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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

The new baseplate arrived yesterday, so I was up before first light, I've spent the last hour putting it all back together, and I have a perfect spark at the plug. Thank you, Jon.
I stepped into the kitchen for a morning coffee to be greeted by a cheery "good morning darling " (well actually what she said was
"If you think you are starting that noisy, smelly messy thing up before lunch you have another think coming") :lol:
blast off has been delayed until this afternoon :shock:
Last edited by flyguy on Sun Dec 04, 2016 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1965 40 - 1990 55 - 1954 - Little Forty -1986 EF
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Oyster 49
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Re: Little Forty

Post by Oyster 49 »

On the subject of chroming I got a 40 drive leg done at Classic Seagulls, he charged £25. Looks great, far better than painting which to me never looks right.

My local chroming place which is very high quality charge a minimum £75. Ouch!
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flyguy
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Re: Little Forty

Post by flyguy »

Oyster 49 wrote:On the subject of chroming I got a 40 drive leg done at Classic Seagulls, he charged £25. Looks great, far better than painting which to me never looks right.

My local chroming place which is very high quality charge a minimum £75. Ouch!
£25 sound great value
1965 40 - 1990 55 - 1954 - Little Forty -1986 EF
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