Saving Old Seagulls

I tried this once on my 40-plus and it worked. Stick the garden hose nozzle up threw the tell tale on the cyl head and back flush it while the motor is sitting in the tank. Do this and then start it up. If nothing happens do it again with the motor still running. Gasket looks fine. Its one of those thick bakerlite ones that have no worry. If no go. The water pickup could be a loose fit. Try wrapping a layer or two of some sought of tape around the base of the tube and fit it up making sure its a tight fit.

P-s There wouldnt be to many air bubbles in there would there,

blew up the delivery tube and that was good , placed the gasket against the base and could see where I had enlarged the hole in the gasket for the exhaust and compared it to the bottom plate , when comparing in to the top plate I could see that it let in exhaust gas Now it goes good Yay !

So today I solved my water pump mystery and put together another Sliver Century motor ready for a test run tomorrow. The aim has been to clean , and utilize the best combination of parts I have in an effort to make 3 more motors capable of running faster than the one I already had . Props aside of course .
Since the weather here looks like it won't be playing ball for a while. I had been hoping to go testing on one of our lakes . I have time to dress a couple of props and a 102 in bits to put together yet , holiday time won't be wasted . But the stable is looking more sorted and I'll sleep more soundly waiting for Santa ,

One thing that every seagull out board needs is a pull cord , and it's not the rope the interests me much although it must be of small enough diameter to fit in and be removed from the gap between the pull wheel lug and the flywheel plate , not to short so as to be ineffectual. Nor to long as to be of nuisance ,for there are stories sure to be more than urban myth about mariners being beaten by a whipping starter rope that failed to release. Some may bare scars to more than their ego ,but I'd prefer you kept your clothes on chaps.
What I find fascinating is the vast variety of pull toggles . British Seagull genuine or not . I carefully match mine up to the personality of each motor , coiled , ready for action at moments notice . I've made a couple , trying to be vigilant to spot one at a garage sale or shop.
I only own one that is genuine , the others lost to time and tide I suspect .
Would those that know be so kind to enlighten us , and gents get your cameras and toggles out ~ you so me yours and I'll let you look at mine .

Where is the brass one? On this forum somebody did some rather nice rope work in making a fancy knot handle. Wish I could find it or the poster could re post it.

I used a tree vine once when I was caught out.

Good idea Huggie , I'll make some brass ones

I don't profess to know much about propellers , but I've had a good go at making a brass SD prop for my "Steampunk 102" now it sits ready waiting for the weather to clear to see if it's any good .
Don't expect you'll see many of these . Because what I do know is there is a fair degree of effort that goes in to make something that appears so simple at first glance.
It hasn't had it's final polish ~ no point until I'm satisfied it run's as good as I can get it .

Great job I can only imagine the hours that have gone into dressing and finishing that prop from a cast finish

Thanks Oyster , the picture doesn't do such a three dimensional object justice really . But you get the idea .

Not all beer a skittles today ,the head of a bolt broke off and the resulting ezzy out snapped in the hole probably because I wasn't taking enough care and doing it cold . I'll sort it tomorrow .

What I did find that may be of interest was something I had thought about and discussed with Tinker , and another thing I had not seen before .
1) a hole drilled in the bottom of the con rod . you'd do this to provide extra lubrication at this point . I have seen one crank that showed bluing in this area but not normally , still . Also interesting is that in the older motors where the con-rod bolts are bottom tied and the later ones at the top of the threads . Any one know why ?

2) this hole at the top of the crank case again to provide extra lubrication for the top bush I assume . Is this factory or more recent ?

the idea of these holes is to allow better lubrication at these points and there for less frictional resistance and wear . so of interest particularly to racers perhaps .

Is this factory or more recent ?

factory ive seen them before.

You could start selling them brass SD props!

Okay thanks for that .
Take a good look at the prop because they would cost around 450 pound plus postage~ how many would you like ?

When you want to transport you precious motors with out damage how do you guys do it ? Well I built a frame so I can fit camping gear and motors on the ute and tow the boat .

As you can see the weathers picked up so I'm heading off testing .

I see the steampunked gets to ride in the front seat (Shotgun)

Chilli dog gets the front seat !