Saving Old Seagulls

Try the main site. http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/bu ... 20roll.JPG

Charles uk wrote:Try the main site. http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/bu ... 20roll.JPG

Excellent, thank you! Now if I could just read the size on those spanners.....

When ordering from John make sure you send a complete list of all the bit you need to get the best postage. I find that it takes between 10 to 15 days for a package to arrive to Hobart, a few more to arrive in Bruny Perth should be about the same. John is always reliable, complete and correct.

AJ

So, Riptide out of the way for now and it's back to the Seagull.
I have a head gasket on order, but tell me, does anyone ever make their own?

So, changed the head gasket but still only runs for 20 mins. No marks inside the block to indicate problems there. Any more suggestions?

If you have good compression, then the problem can only be fuel or spark.

If the tank does not breathe that stops the fuel flow.

Next time it stops check to see if there is fuel in the carb bowl.

Also check for dirt in fuel system.

Change the plug,check plug cap and lead, is also an easy thing to try.

H-A

If there is a condenser in the flywheel, they sometimes increase resistance when they get warm until there is no spark, if there on there way out.

When it starts to lose power squirt WD40 around the seals. If it picks up there is a leak. Tis handy to squirt into the carby which will tell you if it is a fuel problem.

I had the same problem in a century. Checked everything and all looked good. Changed the block and never had a problem since. Possible hairline crack undiscernible when cool.

Years ago somebody here had a similar problem with a motor running in a well and it was suffocating on its own fumes.

Thanks for those replies. I can see I'm going to be busy checking them out!

Have you been running the engine at low power in a drum? sometimes after extended testing in this manner fouling of the piston occurs and when you get the engine on the back of the boat and up to normal running conditions a phenomena know as splashed fouling occurs, here deposits, accumulated after long periods of low power operation, may be suddenly loosened when normal combustion temperatures are restored or after a new plug has been installed. During a full power run, these materials shedding off the piston are thrown against the hot insulator surfaces of the spark plug causing the engine to cut out. Sometime the engine can be simply restarted but more often the plug must be removed and cleaned. This may be repeated until the piston deposits have been full burnt off.

Get the motor onto the back of your boat and give it a good long run at three quarters to full throttle, take a couple of spare plugs with you, if it cuts out drop a new plug in and try again.

This is a method I have employed when putting a motor back on the boat after extended testing at low power.

AJ

No. I've been running at 3/4 power out on the open water. No plug problems.
Thanks for the suggestion though.

Had a motor bike that use to stop running after pretty much the same time, it was a single cylinder yamaha srx600, tried everything to no avail but then checked the main wire going from the magneto to the ignition, it was slightly corroded, cleaned the connection up and the bike never had that problem again,
with the seagull try cleaning your electrics and checking the wiring especially the one from the coil and also clean out the carb using compressed air.
I am not disputing all the technical advice given but no one suggested this as the 1st steps

erle bartlett wrote:No. I've been running at 3/4 power out on the open water. No plug problems.
Thanks for the suggestion though.

That only leaves fuel problem then.

Is the motor sitting low on the transom, a small wave can ground out the plug.

Very hard to offer advice without pictures or more detailed information.

Do we know which model Seagull we are talking about?

H-A