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Yes unless somebody can come up with a better way of connecting the two leads I'd say I'll stick with the screw method. It looks like it will work judging by the youtube clip. I'm hoping the connection will suffice as a permanent fix but sure only time will tell.skyetoyman wrote:modified screw to connect is similar to how some plug caps are fitted - so should work fine.
Will be ok for up and down the LiffEy
That sounds like a bargain $10 for two leads. I remain hopeful that I'll be able to get some ht lead for the job in the local motor factors. It's definitely available on ebay if all other routes fail.+1
I would try and do this too so all your joints are protected.
Try a place that does specialist car parts. We have a place here that does rare spares and the like and they have facilities for making up leads including wire cored stuff with crimp connectors, may even have joiners. They made both my Century leads for $10 including nice rubber plug caps that seal on the plug porcelain.
The heat shrink with the glue is also a lot thicker than the garden variety. Couple of layers and you probably have close to original insulation thickness.
pat777 wrote:The insulation is very bad at the end all right, there is no noticeable damage after the first few inches. I agree it would be better to have the connection above the base plate under the flywheel for both the support and the weather protection but I think it might be a bit of a fiddly job trying to get the connection right in the confines of the flywheel. (I'd be worried about straining the joint when it comes to pulling the lead back through the grommet on the base plate. You'd only really get one chance to get it right also where as if I keep it below the base plate if the first attempt doesn't work I can just cut another bit off the existing lead.Charles uk wrote:It would appear from your pictures that the insulation on your HT lead is in a very poor state, why not look at a repair above the baseplate where the insulation is more protected & should be in better condition, then all you need to find is the right sized copper cored HT lead & some method of connecting them, the joint will then be better protected from vibration as it will be supported quite closely at both ends.
I'm hoping with the adhesive lined heat shrink that I will have a fairly secure joint that will be protected from the elements and the vibration. Thanks for putting forward the idea though, it's good to consider different options when it comes to these bodge jobs.
That sounds like a challenge to me! I'm not sure the RNLI would be too happy with me heading off across the channel with my "trusty seagull". If I leave now I may make it in time for the Essex Flocking. I think I'll stick to the safe option cruising up and down the canals.This sort of repair should be ok for frendly river use but might not be quite as suitable for crossing the Irish sea!
John might have the right sized HT lead have you tried him?
John must have Charles uk on commission for all of these referrals! I'll try and get some lead locally but if I have no luck I'll get in touch all right. I know I haven't got a hope of getting the 4mm locally but I'm hoping one of the local motor factors will have some 5mm that will hopefully do the (bodge) job
Cheers Pat
Thanks, that makes sense alright! I tried a few of the local motor factors today and they looked at me like I had two heads. Good to hear you're not on commission Charles uk and just doing it out of the kindness of your heart. I couldn't agree more, that it's a great service that John provides for all us Seagullers.RickUK wrote:Try a lawnmower repair shop for the smaller diameter HT lead
