Saving Old Seagulls

Nice job I bet the tank took some rubbing down!

as they say in tennis. It was the pits

top end off - no problems . piston going up and down nicely . cylinder head seems very good . waterways clean. I don't think it has seen seawater. sent off for bsf spanners from baconsdozen tools. Square bolt on magneto is not going to move without welding a piece on
Bottom end now off . clamping bolt is rock solid . Sent off for blow torch. small circular stamp on casing (Navy ?)
very stiff to turn prop.

The stamp on the skeg is that of the receiving inspector at the war ministry.(CIESS)

I sent my magneto down to Villiers parts for refurbishment and a new coil. It does not come cheap though. At the time I was concerned about stripping the magneto and causing some damage.

I have since stripped down a spare assembly with a dead coil, to find it came apart easily The screws that attach the magnets & coil came off with a little gentle heat where they screw through the backplate. Just be careful not to chew them up. Villiers parts can supply new coils with collars to make the diameter up, as I don't think the original coil is available.

I have had some good results cleaning up gearbox casings with soap and water with a scotchbrite pad or medium wet and dry, followed by wire wool dipped in metal polish, followed by a good buff with elbow grease. The elbow grease is free, but comes with ear ache from SWMBO. John at SOS has spare piston rings that are new old stock. Alternatively Jan who frequents this board might be able to help find various hard to find SD bits.

I think I have posted this before.

If you get an SD coil ( Villiers M1030 x16, 9/16" core) replaced do not let the "repairer" retain the defective M1030 x16 coil, keep it in your grubby little hands, there is a good chance that one of the coil re-winders will be able to re-wind one for about the same money as George can make the later smaller version fit in the same place & work but not look the same.

Just watch this space I have 2 dead ones waiting for me to post them off to the far east for rewind on a trial basis, if they prove as good as promised the problem will be solved!

A big bonus in terms of originality & definitely not possible if the M1030 has gone in the bin!

I have 2 dead coils in the garage after your advice a while back Charles. I'll hang on to them

Cylinder head is off (found a spanner). Looks solid , no rust , waterways much cleaner than expected .Nothing broken - good soaking with WD 40 (as advised) One stud came off with a nut but a couple of lock nuts on the other end should sort that. Piston rings were free . Again all parts are much better than expected. For an engine that hasn't been touched for 20 years I am amazed at its condition. Bearings are running fine. Do I undo crankcase ?
Someone must have really looked after it.

"someone must have looked after it". OOOPs !
I was going to ask how to remove gearbox cover but then read old posts , problem solved. Wood block and big hammer
Lots of crumbly stuff inside but believe all gears are fine. Long drive shaft is in brilliant condition.

Still having problems removing drive tube

How those gears survive when you see that level of neglect is beyond me I've just repaired one that had sawdust in it. Cleaned up nicely though.

Looking good, the drive leg can be removed by using a suitably sized socket, a gnats whisker smaller than the hole in the pump housing and hammering from below. Apply plenty of heat to the casing around the drive leg, and it will slowly come out. Big hammer time...

I scraped all the crud from the gear teeth, and soaked in WD40 overnight. Then a clean with a stiff brush and the gears seemed fine

Thanks for that Oyster. I have found a suitable socket but there is a brass washer and a spacer in the diagram of a 102 . Do I pop the washer out from the other side and then drive the spacer and shaft out together.
Regards
Terry

I'm not sure what you mean re the brass washer & spacer? There should be a "bobbin" style bush sitting in the end of the driveshaft leg, that the top of the gearbox pinion sits in. So far for me these have not budged and the whole leg can be drited out in 1 go.

I am with you now. I hadn't realised the shaft went ALL the way through . No wonder it's difficult to get out.
Will soak in WD40 for a couple of days. This is Skye and I don't bang things on Sundays , at least not the noisy banging.
Will strip and clean gearbox instead. Gears and pinnions looks good
Many thanks

Thanks to Oyster 49 drive tube popped out easily.
A small display of 102 bits is in the Toy Museum (Boys Toys) while the rest of the engine is being worked on .

What are the gasket thicknesses on the head and gearbox cover.

10 thou.

Only RTV one side, that way you can clean up all the silicon snots & the other side is just oily paper, there's virtually no pressure so the clean side will hold.

So the cylinder base gasket is stuck to the cylinder & the gearbox end cap has the gasket stuck to it, this saves cutting a lot of gaskets.

The waterpump housing to gear box is also 10 thou paper, but only on the SD, I can't remember on the later greased boxes.