Saving Old Seagulls

Hi Jerry,
Probably I'm overcautious, is it OK (safe) from your experience running a slow-cooker for two days with these chemicals in it? I guess there must be some fumes given off, are they noxious or flammable? It'll irk the missus something horrible if I blow up my garage? Worse still if I gas myself!
Having spent a few hours cleaning out rust from waterways mechanically I love the idea of cooking the stuff away and ending up with something thats shiny and clean and ready to paint and you know that all the crud is gone. I'll keep an eye open for a product with a similar spec as the Purple Power I think and give it a whirl on an old damaged block that I have and experiment.
I've got Comma Hyper Clean but see that it is solvent based, this PP product looks and sounds more like Cillit Bang. Anyone got any ideas?
Ken

my cooker sits on my work bench down in my basement shop and the oil will stink a bit after awhile (smells like burnt motor oil), so when i'm using oil i'll set it by the outside exit door lest the wife unleash her wrath about the scent. i can get away with a calm "i don't smell anything honey" but after awhile she'll insist that something stinks.

the cleaner doesn't stink at all.

motor oil has a flash point of about 400*F, so the 375*F i've measured with the pot on the high temp setting is close, so i set it on low if i'm not going to be nearby.

honest-to-goodness crock pots have a glazed ceramic interior. the chemicals i've used have yet to damage mine.

good luck on cleaning your cylinder. i would think that if the water-passages were cram packed tight with rust you might have to pitch-in and use some mechanical means to help with removal, but the cylinders i've cleaned were pretty rusty and they cleaned up just fine.

Anyone tried this method of rust removal? Might need a layer of grease on the bore to be safe?

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Or try some items that don't matter before trying good stuff?

Jeff

I use a strong mix of Caustic soda and soak the cyl in a bucket overnight. I then take it out and give it a good hit with the high pressure water blaster. "That gets out all the rust". But i dont know if you have anything like a water blaster and an air compressor to blow out all the water to get it dry.

MoodyBlue wrote:Anyone tried this method of rust removal? Might need a layer of grease on the bore to be safe?

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

Or try some items that don't matter before trying good stuff?

Jeff

Don't try it if your aim is to clean the internal of the water jacket. It is an "eye contact" reaction. In addition that stuff that blocks the waterways is not just rust. It is deposits created under high temperature and pressure. It also contains elements of the water passed through the waterways. That could be silicon mostly because of the sand and only God knows what else, sodium, calcium.. whatever the lake or the sea contain.

I have done some experiments and electrolytic rust removal. Most of them has some or no effect. The deposits because of the way created are quite stable so I have ended to a highly sophisticated method to unblock the water ways.. Drill, hammer, big nails and broken drill bits
Oil, petrol, WD40 etc may help to loosen the deposits but I have done it the dry way.

Yes i dont think a small electrical screwdriver is up to the job need some stronger screwdrivers or whatever

There is alot to be said about pressure washers. Put on some glasses, figure out a way to hold the part to keep it from skipping away and have at it. Never done it myself with a seagull block.

I put on my steel cap boots and just hold the block down with one foot and use the pencil nozzle to blast out all the gallerys. I then use the narrow spray nozzle to finish of on the outside to remove all the paint, it doesnt seem to run away on you. I used a bit of cuastic soda when i mopped the tile floors the other day. I now have to wear sunglasses every time i walk in the door now its so bright

Given that sea water is a big problem , is there anything that can prevent its damage ? There must be some modern additive for a test tank that will give a slight coating to the internals of the cylinder head.

I had talked with a supplier about that and he told me that there is a fluid but if the outboard has regular use, within a month it will need renewal.
Another matter is the insulation that may result such a substance. Someone had tried to apply a layer of anti corrosive system with zinc and epoxy, something like paint and he had overheating problems. I have sprayed in a block with a cold galvanizing zinc spray. 98% zinc. The layer is thin and it seems that it will transfer heat as the manual says that it transfer electricity efficiently. Not tested yet though.