Saving Old Seagulls

Thanks Neal, appreciate it.

Received parts from George re Villiers ignition for SD. Hopefully I can get two SD's running now. Received a point box with the later mk1 points with hopefully a longer arm to suit the domed magneto. Does anyone know if the later SD's used the sliding screw set of points instead of the stud type?

Might start a new thread on JM magnetos with photos of the differences for future reference purposes.

Is the other Charles still around?

Cheers Hugo.

Any SD returned to the factory for repair after the late forties would have had the later points fitted if required. While virtually no documentation survives pertinent to the early 102 series we do have the Army spares book which specifically states that the later type may be supplied when the earlier ones run out. Naturally that means the whole points box, rather than the set itself.

There are indeed differences in magnetos from 1931 to 1945. The magneto cover, that shallow lampshade shaped thing, was sometimes aluminium, and sometimes copper in an SD. I have no idea why, but I certainly have a lot of time for the theory that these were for Navy use, as we all know the Senior Service likes stuff you can polish. I do not subscribe to the theory I read on an eBay item that these were antimagnetic so could be used to propel minesweepers where magnetic mines were a danger!

Some covers had a lip, a sort of brim. That was dropped in the transitional Marstons, and came back with the SN (I think, there only is one surviving) and certainly for the SD.

Most had a threaded portion on the inner circumference of the flywheel boss. This allowed the use of the simple but effective Villiers flywheel remover, samples of which in various sizes crop up frequently on eBay. There is a danger (as the other Charles will tell you) that a 'Nut 'n Hammer' removal method on these early flywheels can distress the very soft alloy, so what was dished becomes flat.

Some of the teardrop Marstons had an ignition advance retard lever, which when adjusted makes for easy starting and optimal running. Many reckon it makes no difference, but my mate Andy reckons that with the lever gently adjusted you can get a teardrop to run very smoothly at the slowest of revs, which he demonstrated rather convincingly at Ibsley. Big flywheel, small capacity, timing just right, and they tick over in his words 'like a bar of chocolate' - in other words smooth and sweet.

And the dome nut changed. Originally two nuts and two washers, it changed quickly into a single nut and washer, and it's probable that Marston's used whatever style was available at various points. There are certainly a few variations out there.

Oh, and it's worth pointing out that it wasn't just the 'domed' magnetos that had the early style points. You'll find them on a 'D' or an 'AD', too. These are the ones made just after the war, where the baseplate has no flange, and the radius around the upper rim is a little less pronounced. I believe I have such a set on a 1949 FV at home, but I'm along the coast house-sitting and looking after a mate's livestock today.

I have learned this weekend that small dogs are greedier than big ones, and that Labradors are much easier than cats when it comes to giving them a tablet from the vet. I have also learned that it is impossible to herd chickens. The feathered flock of which I am the temporary custodian do not speak English, and all of them have a way of looking at me with immense scorn.

The other Charles is around, and has extreme IT issues. It is to be hoped that a fresh PC will cure his problem (well the Internet related one, anyway) he'll be reading this and will doubtless give me a call if he wants me to post anything.

Hope that helps

Thanks Charles, learnt a lot from your post. Now I'm worried about using the hammer method to remove the flywheel. I wonder if I can get the box in between the spokes... will investigate. If the newer points system where used as a replacement by the factory them I'll still consider it original. Didn't know that the AD's used the old style. Have to say the newer style is a lot easier to adjust.

Is there any tricks in adjusting the clutched box to stop it from dropping out of neutral and into gear?

Thanks Hugo.

Not that I know of - but that't the reason for the angled bit on the later bronze clasmp ring on the later 102s; they bore on the gear lever and helped to retain it. It may help if you fiddle with the lever/actuator length.