Saving Old Seagulls

I fill larger dents with solder then put a thin skim of filler over to make the final shape. I use this filler:

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165625

I think it is important to avoid putting a lot of filler in place, as it will crack.So "Lead load" with solder first, file to just below the profile you need and then add a skim of filler if required. Repeat as required!

Thanks Oyster, I suppose I should use a flux in order to bond the lead on the brass?

It is possible to solder a brass or steel rod about 7-8mm diameter into a dent and pull most of the dent out or at least reduce it's size somewhat. I used a piece of threaded steel rod about 20cm long with a bar held on with nuts and washers and used the bar to strike with a hammer to pull out the dent. It would usually take 3 or 4 hammer blows before the solder joint would break and need resoldering. It's slow work but fairly effective. Then less depth to fill with solder later.

Thanks also for this method. I think I will use the method with the lead as the steel or brass rod requires acetylene torch and I have only a map gas. I have tried to do some repairs with a brass rod but my torch wasn't strong enough!

Actually just used a small propane torch well maybe Mapp gas don't recall. Don't have acetelyene either.

So the rod that I used was not the proper one. The Mapp gas torch is a good one. I think I should do some research on soldering rods.

If you use a steel rod instead of brass you will need to use a zinc chloride liquid flux to get the steel tinned properly.
I don't recall if I used regular 50/50 lead tin solder or the high tin solder that we now have to use for domestic plumbing, probably the 50/50 solder.

Wow, now that's some usuful knowledge. I know almost nothing about soldering, brazing etc.

If you can't find the liquid flux you can make your own by dissolving zinc in dilute hydrochloride acid until it will dissolve no more zinc. Be careful it generates a large amount of hydrogen gas and the acid heats up some.

My father in law was a sheet metal tradesman. He told me that is how they used to make their zinc chloride flux. I think the commercial kind has a wetting agent of some type included.

50+ years ago, when I was a young teen, I used to fill balloons with the hydrogen gas, by dissolving the zinc in a soft drink bottle with a balloon over the open end. Lots of other silly and semi-dangerous things as well.

Thanks for the tip Phil!

Another matter now. This SD has grease nipples and not a gearbox plug. I have found localy a gearbox oil which is SAE 250. Would that be suitable or should I still do a mixture of 3/4 grease and 1/4 SAE 140?

they are oil nipples . not grease .

I see.. So I will need an oil gun. Any idea about the most proper lubricant?

Thanks

SD and early AC/AD have grease nipples. Oil nipples where on later AC/AD. There are 3 grease nipples on the early ones and two oil nipples on the later ones. I bought a cheap grease gun (china made) that gripped the nipple that hard that it broke They are a bit fragile.

Welcome back Chilli Dog.





The early straight exhaust/water pump housing had the nipple on either port or starboard side. I think the early ones where on the port side. Could be wrong though.

I 've got a nice Wanner grease gun but I doubt if it is able to push gearbox oil SAE 250.

By the way, my SD has three grease nipples.

All seagulls from the Marston OA until they fitted the new end cap with the brass oil filler cap, were fitted with oil nipples, if yours has the "ball ended" grease nipples, someone has changed them over the intervening years.

I did manage to buy some 1/4 bsf oil nipples, new old stock, that are almost identical to the originals, last year for the Marston Register but they cost a fortune at over £1 each + vat + P&P, so they can be found, after about 20 free samples of the wrong thing.

As for suitable gearbox lube just about any fluid lubricant will work as long as it's viscous enough to stay in the box during use, if it's too runny, half of it will end up on the floor & the remainder will be displaced by water before you've finished your boat trip.

So the oil type required is dependant on the condition of your prop/pinion shafts & their bearings.
The thickest oil I've found so far is 460.