Putting up a real fight!!!

[Charles uk]

Find a professional TIG welder.

[Polybus]

Success!!!!

The Loctite Red worked a real treat!

So I locked the nut onto the stud with Loctite Red and gave it a few days to really harden - went down there this afternoon and tried to back off the nut. Sure enough - the nut was locked to the stud and the stud came out with it.

Worked great!!!

And to my surprise - it was really easy to get the nut off the stud once it had been removed. Just a moderate amount of heat from my MAP Gas torch and it came off really easily - bonus!!

Now I can use some serious heat to try and get the Base plate Securing Screw and the head off.

I wonder if I can use the same method to get the Base Plate Securing Screw out...... hmmmmm.

Charles UK - I would probably go for something like a professional welder, but I'm not sure you understand how remote it is out where I am working.....I'm right out in the Australian Bush/Desert - there's only about 4 buildings, 25 goats and three feral pigs and a few drunks out here - no professional welders - or much else for that matter-that's one of the reasons I've brought the Seagull out here-to give me something to do while I'm not working = there's nothing else to do out here, except watching the goats shag I suppose.

anyway....so now all I need to do is get the base plate off and the head off and I'm ready to get restoring and putting it back together.

BTW: I want to get the head off to put on some new rings - looking in to the piston I "think"I can see one of the rings is cracked - in any case, anew set of rings after 55 years is probably not being extravagant.

More later.

[Polybus]

Well all I have managed to do since my last post was break half the head off the Base Plate Retaining screw.

Now that I have the coil off I gut really stuck in with the heat and then went at it with a hand impact screwdriver - no luck - just distorted the screw head.

Then more head and a good pair of Locking Pliers - snapped off half the head.

I might give that a rest and have a go at getting the head off.

This is proving tough!!

[Charles uk]

Found this in the back of my car, baseplate locking screw.

With a 8mm bolt welded on the end.

[geofflena]

I have just done one of those stud bolts on a villers head. If its stuck you really need heat. Would think you could protect the coil ok - the large lug is a big heat sink - as is the baseplate ?
Without heat - try putting one nut on and tightening it as tight as you can. Then put on the 2nd and do the same. Then get a flat spanner on the lower nut. A good whack on top downwards does not go amiss ( shock tactics )

You can drill them out enough to break the flange as last resort ?

If your coil is good - treat it kindly - a rare beast !

[Polybus]

Believe it or not, I am still struggling with this thing - I just can't get the base plate retaining screw out.

I have done all the things listed above.

I have now smuggled the engine back to Sydney on a commercial flight.

i soaked it in diesel for 2 weeks.

I have welded a nut to the end of the screw, a number of times - but when I exert force on it, the nuts just chew off the end of the retaining screw.

There is now not enough left of the retaining screw to have another go at welding it again. I did everything I could - made sure it was scrupulously clean - used a MIG welder - used and arc welder -nothing worked.

Now I am trying to simply drill it out (I am still trying to save the thread) but the top of the retaining screw have broken off at an angle so any drill I use simply slides into the thread on the wall.

I am giving up.

I am going to try and take it to an engineering shop to get it removed - just gotta chalk this one up to experience I guess.

I hate giving up!!!

Polybus

[Hugz]

You inspired me to pull a plate apart. A good coil so I can modify it to fit a JM magnet. It is an Australian coil called Rofo.

[Polybus]

Good on ya Hugz.....

Rub it in.....

Polybus

[Hugz]

If you are close to Lane Cove you can have the base plate if you wish to hit yours with an angle grinder. You will still need to find a locating stud though. I'm not into posting unfortunately.

[Polybus]

I might just take you up on that very kind offer Hugz.

I'm out bush working at the moment, and won't be back to the Big Smoke for a few weeks, but when I do get back, I'm only about 20 minutes from you.

I reckon you can get the Locating Pins from John at SOS. so that won't be a drama.

Polybus.

[Hugz]

Here is a bolt I took off another motor. You can have that to get you out of trouble. Engineering shop is not acceptable

[daydreamingdave]

I am also restoring an old seagull EFNR564FF9. When I say restoring, I am not going to the detail and precision that you guys do. Hopefully no one will look at what I do and shake their head too much!
But I have taken the route of "I need an outboard for my boat, a seagull would suit it". I need it to work well, not be a museum piece. And I have a deadline. I need an outboard I can rely on.
I will probably start a new thread for those that want to see a very different approach.
In truth, I am in awe of the perfectionist. Those screws are there to enable us to make minute adjustments to some of the parts. In reality, we rarely adjust them. I have no idea how often we should check and adjust the timing, but the facility is there so it should be working.
Bit of a rant, inspired by The Boss asking if I had taken any pictures. I havent so far, but will do now.

My question is this: if I am replacing the cylinder block, should I also put new piston rings on as well? I read somewhere that not doing so could result in a reduction of power by up to 30. Whilst I am not tuning the engine, 30% is a significant drop.

[Charles uk]

First job is borrow a compression gauge, give the power head a couple of squirts of lube & give it 5 pulls with the plug removed, then fit the compression gauge & take a reading after 3 pulls & let us know the result.

Seagulls are not famous for wearing out, not when they're as young as yours 1979.