SD 102

[seagull101]

I have just looked at the pics of the one still in factory paper and it is painted the exact same as mine with the same shade green, so therefore mine is correct as its identical.
The crated one also had no stenciled number on the exhaust.

Back to my SD, I have decided to just buy a correct coil for it, I did watch your video Hugo and it seems very helpful.
Just wondering if anyone knows who bought the crated one?

Jacob

[Charles uk]

I wonder what those traces of white paint on the cleaned up exhaust tube were for?

Hadn't yours been varnished at some time in it's life & the crankcase & cylinder been painted silver, when I looked at yours the green paint had a slight glossy look, though I could well be wrong, still a nice motor that I thought was well worth a bid.

[seagull101]

Mine does not look to have been varnished and yes, my powerhead is silver but then again so is the crated one.
Yep it was defiantly worth what I payed for it.

Jacob

[Keith.P]

At the end of the day it's an SD and if you're happy with your purchase, then that's fine.
From what I see the ignition system had to have been removed before painting the ignition and block, plus each bolt of the tank mounts.
The carburettor cover shows no sign of laquer like the carb, so that's later.
Seeing that the exhaust clamp has been fitted upside down and having brass tank mounts looks a little odd, this may all be an indication that its been used, but very much looked after, which it has.
Trying to say its never been used and totally original, when you can see the modern transom mount and the DIY hydro fan prop that had been fitted, shown on the Ebay listing.
Sorry but I'm not that stupid.

[tambikeboy]

Should be a very nice motor when finished but I'm afraid definitely not unused a monkey in a wrangler jacket can work that one out. ...

[Hugz]

I have just looked at the pics of the one still in factory paper and it is painted the exact same as mine with the same shade green, so therefore mine is correct as its identical.
The crated one also had no stenciled number on the exhaust.Jacob

There is no green on the crated one apart from the side mounting bracket. Does anyone know who built these brackets? They may well be built by the contractors to the Army. Many SD's have the silver cylinder so that is correct. Incidentally there looks like there is a reasonable case to assume that brass pressed tank saddles were used in the later SD's. The crated one seems to endorse this opinion too.

[seagull101]

The tank straps are green.

[seagull101]

Quick question,
From what I read I should put EP140 in a grease gun to fill up the gearbox.
All my grease guns are currently full so since I'm only going to test the engine could I use a old fashioned oil can and remove the grease nipples for filling it up?

Jacob

[Oyster 49]

I'd suggest removing the gearbox end cover and seeing what's going on in the gearbox.you can easily clean it out, and know you have a clean box from then on. Fill with 140 grade if you have it.90 grade is fine, but it will tend to leak out of the shaft a lot more.

[headdownarseup]

Jacob

By far the easiest (and less messy way) is to remove the gearbox end cap FIRST. After a quick peek inside the guts of it you can then remove and clean all of the goo from inside your gearbox. It's a good time to assess just how much work your SD has really done.(wink)
Filling the gearcase couldn't be any easier at this stage. With the end cap still removed, lay your motor so that the fuel tank faces downwards and that it rests on the little lugs. As the gearcase will be facing towards the sky at this point ,fill the case with oil till the level is just below the flange of where the end cap will finally rest. Ignore what you may have read about the oil level being at a "half-way" point in later gearboxes. These older gearboxes have completely different oiling requirements. Trust me on that
90 grade oil is definitely not the right stuff to use. It's far too thin for an "old dear" like this and will run out of the gearbox quick as a flash once you start using the motor. Use the thickest oil you can find, 140 or thicker.

If you feel the need ,PM me and i'll talk you through the finer points of all this.

Jon

[Oyster 49]

Whilst 140 grade is the correct oil, the point I'm making is that any thickish gear oil is better than none. Certainly never put grease in! 90 grade will leak out easier, but I've put that in my SD before and it was fine, until I got a gallon of 140 delivered.

Key thing with seagull gearboxes, make sure there is oil in them, and change regularly

Plenty of knowledgeable people here who can help and assist. No need to PM people, after all its a FORUM..and we can all learn from others experience.

[headdownarseup]

For some things perhaps yes
But for other perhaps more sensitive matters (away from prying eyes and ears) then PM's often lead to a happy outcome.
Does away with the need of being publicly humiliated. See previous posts in this thread. (i've been there and done that more times than i care to remember now)

I agree that we are a FORUM. I agree that there are some folks more than capable of working on old equipment such as these.
A difference of opinion (whichever way you interpret it) has at times lead to some pretty heated comments on here.

Just saying is all.

Back to old 102 gearboxes again
Oil (thick or thin) is better than no oil at all (i agree with you there Oyster)

Not wishing to give Jacob a hard time here as i think he's now realised the true extent of what he's bought. My advice is to take things slowly and if he's stuck to ask someone that knows about these old things. Maybe that person is me, then again maybe not. His choice not ours.
My door is always open.....


Jon

[seagull101]

Whats the points gap on a SD, i plan to try it tomorrow now i have a coil!

Jacob

[seagull101]

Got it running today! started 4th pull!

Enjoy, Jacob

https://youtu.be/Z7w3uzhm1ts

[tambikeboy]

Nice one