How to restore my 40 FW

[beerich]

Hi folks. I'm new here.

First, a page:


http://www.pints.com/seagull/Seagull.html

That's my 40. I want to take her apart, get her going, shine her up, replace parts, make her sing.

How do I do this? Any books? Any sites? Any advice? I don't know the terminology, and I doubt I have the tools. But I see this as a Fall project. I'd love to get her going.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

[charlesp]

First thing is a general point - don't fix it if it isn't broken. Fom the pictures on your web page your motor looks to be in pretty good condition on the outside anyway.

First thing to do is work out if she runs properly, and if she does then you need do no more than clean and check the points and spark plug, and top up the gearbox oil.

Best source of a workshop manual is John here at SOS, who will also tell where to get the right grade of oil for the gearbox, that must be 140 grade, not a multigrade, and most definitely not waterpump grease.

Try to find a tool supplier over there that deals in Imperial size (BSF and Whitworth)spanners. John will tell you which you need.

On the main site :

http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk

you will find frequently asked questions, and loads of pictures. Probably the most important bit of advice is under no circumstances use a flywheel puller - you will most probably destroy the flywheel.

Flush out the tank, wash out the filter in the fuel tap and the one at the carburettor banjo, fill her up with fresh two stroke mix (I'm not clear on your web page if she's been converted to 25:1) and give her a go, if she starts and pumps water the job is pretty much done. (Take the prop off first)

Let us know how you get on...

[beerich]

Hi Charles. Thanks for replying.

Ya I wondered if there was any big work to do on it. Is it a good idea to just take the thing apart anyway? Is it a major hassle?

Conversion to 25:1 would have been done aftermarket? It was bought when I was like 2 years old, as my Dad was the original owner.

So initial questions (tell me if the manual covers this):

1. How to flush the tank. With 10:1 mixture? Just a swish and away you go? It's been sealed all this time.

I guess that's the only question I have, other than local sources.

[40TPI]

From what can be seen in the pictures it looks mint! And it looks like the original owner even took Seagulls advice and varnished it as well as storing it under the bed!

Cleaning maybe ..restoration no! Many here would think it a sin to put it into water.......Resist the temptation to strip it! Your neighbours have an expression something like "if it ain't broke don't fix it!" Quite apt here.

Simply check you have SAE 140 oil in the gearbox, compression in the cyclinder and if the petrol tank is as clean inside as it is outside put some 10:1 two stroke in the tank and fire it up. (Best to remove the split pin, washer and prop shear spring and then remove the prop if you run it in that static tank.) If it doesn't fire up think about cleaning the fuel system and also the points. See below

Tools? Lock up the pipe wrench out of temptations way. Go find 1/4 and 5/16 inch BSF spanners plus a GOOD quality adjustable spanner to handle anything else. Maybe some feeler gauges

Go read the FAQ on the main SOS site and search the archived posts here for information. The FAQ on the main site will certainly tell you every thing you need to know on how to bring a complete motor to running order from storage and more.....


Enjoy!

Peter

[charlesp]

1972 would have left the factory as a 10:1 model.

If it's running well don't take it apart. You'll end up giving yourself trouble.

Flush the tank with clean fresh petrol. Swish it abou a bit, and chuck away what runs out. Clean the gauze filter inside the tank that's on the end of the petrol tap. Take the banjo (the fitting that connects carburettor with petrol pipe) apart, clean the gauze filter. Use fresh petrol for that too.

[beerich]

Heh. I actually slept with it, so there is SOME wearing...but that's another thread altogether.

The decals on the tank are still there, and she's a little dusty. So I'm off to get some oil and some unleaded.

I can replace the 140 in the gearbox can't I?

OK, I have no clue what those tools are. Let me see if I can fire her up with the mixture and a soft rag. I'll take the prop off and film what happens. I can post films on my site, as that's what I do.

Back later. Thanks guys!

[beerich]

Hi folks. Well, I went out and bought a gas tank (to mix) and some 91 octane gas, and tried to get some oil. Said "SAE 140" and the guy (West Marine) said I wrote it down wrong, and that it should be 40. I showed him the picture, and he had never heard of a Seagull, so I'm not sure he's knowing what he's talking about.

So what exactly am I looking for, and where do I find it? Is it different than the gearbox oil?

Just ordered the manual from John, so I look forward to getting that.

Cheers

[philj]

Hi,
you need 2 stroke oil for the fuel tank, and SAE 140 for the gearbox. Any type of 2 stroke oil is ok for the fuel as long as it is for a water cooled outboard motor.
Hope that helps,
regards
Phil

[40TPI]

So what exactly am I looking for, and where do I find it? Is it different than the gearbox oil?

You do need SAE 140 oil in your gearbox. Do not use SAE 40; that is far too low viscosity ( thin). SAE 140 is an old fashioned single weight gearbox oil type that you will not find find on any garage forecourt simply because cars transmissions run on lighter multi grade oils. (SAE 140 EP is fine as well.)

Doubt that Walmart have any.

Your best bet is an agricultural machinery/supplies/repair shop.

Problem you might run into is that a full oil change on a 40 Plus is only about 350 ml and they may have a minimum pail size of 10 gals.
or more!
Look for another local Seagull owner who has some spare?

For two stroke oil to mix with the petrol Seagull originally specified SAE 30. Your engine will still run on this but most owners now use a modern TCW2 or TCW3 specification oil. This two stroke (2T) oil is intended for low temperature engines such as jet skis. If you are really choosey or must be environmentally sound on the water you have access to then you can find fully synthetic biodegradable versions.

Personally I use synthetic TCW 3 at 20:1. Still just about smoke free and I reckon the saving on oil is not worth it to go to 25:1; I favour a longer life in the motor.

Peter

Peter

[beerich]

Hi there.

Found some 140 at a repair shop uptown. I'll be heading there tomorrow. He bought a gallon of it about 20 years ago, and has barely used any of it.

I have no Walmarts close to me, and have only been in one over my years.

I picked up some TCW3 spec oil today just down the road.

So I'm good. Thanks for the tips!

[John@sos]

Hello Richard, realised you would not be up yet to reply to my mail, but a little looking and I have found the thread here with your engine number.


Yes, you can convert it to 25:1 as it is a 1970 version, I will send the PayPal to you for when you get up!

Regards,
John
SOS

[beerich]

OK folks, seems everything is in line, and I should be receiving items from the UK for a 25:1 startup. I will probably film it and keep everybody posted.

Thanks for the guidance, folks!

[mfallon]

I’m not sure if you have NAPA auto parts stores in Canada, but that’s where we’re able to get straight SAE 140 gear oil down here in Boston. Something I would have never found without the help of this board...

[beerich]

Hi there. We certainly do have NAPA, as NA is North America. We have the little baseball hats on them.

Good to know in case this boat goes for another 60 years. I just bought two quarts from a local repair guy, and he said it pours like honey.

Cheers