Little Forty

[flyguy]

I have had a look at where the piston is when the points are open and closed, with points closed the piston is almost at the front, as the points start to open again the piston is right forward (near the spark plug hole), Also the plug is not getting wet after a few pulls of the rope and the WD 40 had no effect at all
off to the pub for lunch now

[Keith.P]

By the looks of things, the retaining screw on the ignition plat (stator) should face directly forward, going by others.
Is the fuel bowl filling up with fuel, turn the fuel off and undo the bottom of the carb, you will soon find out, if it is or not.

[Charles uk]

Are you saying "if the spark plug is 12 o'clock, the base plate retaining screw should be at 6 o'clock" & on which motors is this the case, Keith?

[Oyster 49]

On my FV the magneto baseplate retaining screw is immediately above the tiller stub, which is the central type, not the hinged side one.

I see this engine has tiller mounted on the side of the engine.

So if the spark plug is at 1200, then the magneto screw should be at 6 o'clock.

[headdownarseup]

Double check the little filter that's inside the fuel pipe banjo bolt. If this is blocked it won't let any fuel through into the bowl.
Likewise with the fuel line as well. They very often get bunged up with crud at the bottom of the bend. (i run them under a hot tap for a few minutes to make them supple again before re-fitting)

Is the fuel tap allowing the fuel to flow as well. Pop the fuel line off and swing it out of the way. Pull the knob to the ON position and you should see a good strong flow of fuel coming out. (place something under the tap to catch the fuel) If there's no flow of fuel from the tap it's probably the filter inside the tap that's bunged up. Is there enough fuel in the tank to begin with? The amount of fuel in the tank will have an effect on how strong the fuel flow will be. Half a tank should be more than enough for a test in the bin.

It can't be much now that's stopping this little one from bursting into life.
You've got a spark (that's half the battle) you've got a spotless carb by now and hopefully re-fitted back together again in the right order with everything where it should be (double check if you're not sure)

I'd be looking at the fuel filters again.


You could also cheat a bit here
If you have a small syringe to hand, suck up some fuel into the syringe and squirt a little fuel direct into the plug hole. Refit the plug and HT lead, go through the starting procedure (fuel ON, fuel cap vent OPEN, choke full ON, throttle wide open , tickle tickle tickle till you see fuel dripping out of the small hole in the float bowl (if there is one) or it might dribble from the fuel primer if there's no hole in the bowl, offer up a prayer to the gods of internal combustion) and pull the rope again. See what happens then!

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for you

Jon

[Keith.P]

Are you saying "if the spark plug is 12 o'clock, the base plate retaining screw should be at 6 o'clock" & on which motors is this the case, Keith.

Yep.

[flyguy]

Thanks all, It is getting fuel to the carb, the fuel line, little filter in the banjo, the one in the tank are clean, I have a pint of 10-1 fresh fuel in the tank, the float is working in the carb, a couple of taps on the tickler and fuel drips out the bottom and stops as it should, the needle that blocks the fuel from coming into the carb works well. I took the throttle piston out and the needle, the spring on the needle looks fine, I cleaned the needle and the piston, the needle is marked 3 so it's the right one, yes Jon good eyesight needed here, or my magnifying specs I set it to level, I did wonder if where the throttle cable goes into the piston if it should have a spring, it doesn't
I suspected it might be to do with the position of the base plate? so I took it all apart this afternoon (1/2pt with my lunch and home by 1.45 ) I made sure the screw that holds the base plate is located in the little dimple on the crankshaft. I am not sure that it was located yesterday but it is now. have I messed up with this? or missed something.
I did try putting some fuel in the piston chamber, I even tried it with a squirt of easy start, someone I know calls that stuff Con rod bender not a thing, I tried heating up the sparkplug, I even tried it with its old Com 8 Plug, I had another look at the spark and it looks great to me, I am not getting a wet plug when I take it out

[Hugz]

Mmm sounds like no spark under compression. Maybe air gap in secondary coil? I'm assuming you had choke up (off) and throttle wide when spraying inlet with start up or WD40. You will need to pull rope many times with choke on to get a wet plug (flood). All sounds very odd indeed. Anyone close by have a spare magneto?

[flyguy]

By the looks of things, the retaining screw on the ignition plat (stator) should face directly forward, going by others.
Is the fuel bowl filling up with fuel, turn the fuel off and undo the bottom of the carb, you will soon find out, if it is or not.

fuel yes but retaining screw I will need to check

On my FV the magneto baseplate retaining screw is immediately above the tiller stub, which is the central type, not the hinged side one.

I see this engine has tiller mounted on the side of the engine.

So if the spark plug is at 1200, then the magneto screw should be at 6 o'clock.

I will check the position out, not sure that is where mine is set, I will post a photo next time I am home in daylight.
I had read that earlier models had a fixed tiller and the one I have is hinged, I will go and have a look online to see the difference

[Keith.P]

This is an old picture of my LS with the ignition set, if it helps.
Securing screw pointing out forward.

[tambikeboy]

Sounds like you may need to go back to basics with this one Steve compression fuel spark . strange it may sound I'm interested to know where you checked the spark i once had one give me a spark at the block then no spark at clynd head mybe time to get the wire brush about it. ...

[Collector Inspector]

There is still something wrong with the ignition.

Pull the points apart and clean all insulators then put back together and check with your meter again.......points open is infinity ohms. NOthing to ground reading with condenser disconnected.

Take the condenser out of the housing, clean it and check across it on the table. If you check across it with a diode test setting on your meter that will charge it with about 1 and a bit volts OK? Then change your meter to read millivolts and check accross it again........if good it will start to count down after about a min or so to zero.

No count down............it is screwed

Try another condenser.

A spark in air is not a spark with comp and fuel. (Spark Plug Gap)

You say that nothing with fuel into plug hole which is condenser problem remaining (Good coil and point insulators checked).

Ignition plate only goes on one way for this motor.

Not a mountain here aye.

I add the pics below as in what a healthy mag can do. Please note that if it can not spark even 1/2 of the gap then you will have no hope. In other words a spark at a plug means nothing if the engine will not fire?

You do not need a fancy gap check...............just test for a maximum gap from lead to block.

BnC[/color]

[flyguy]

I am going to follow this sites expert advice and take the head apart, starting Tuesday watch out for lots of questions a few swear words and pictures, oh and I might need advice on how to treat blowtorch burns

[flyguy]

I might have found the reason it hasn't been firing, I had a look at the head, the nuts and they are nuts not bolts looked like they were newly fitted so I tried to loosen one, it came off no bother as did the others, then the head came off, no instant gasket sealing it together,








but then I looked at the other side and I would have expected bolts or nuts,
this is what I see

[tambikeboy]

Seen worse Steve whats it like behind the steel caskets