I think I've found myself WW11 gull. Some oddities tho..... number CD9827.L4 That full stop is there. It is a short (reg) shaft so what does L4 stand for?
Has carry handle on tank... quite useful but who put it on (the army?)
Gearbox has nipples and a drain plug.... did somebody change the back box plate (good idea me thinks)
Carby has a choke.... I have a '47 without a choke.
I'm hoping it is a '42.
Appreciate it if you could peruse these photos and give me a clue.
Your first job is to clean of that serial number to make sure that it does not say SD.
As it looks a lot more like an SD than a C or a D,
It has the Villiers mk1 ignition that needs the flywheel cover removing to see if its got a JM number.
I would guess it's an SD that over the last 60+ years someone has added a carry handle, choke shroud at the top end & at the bottom a replacement water pump housing, gearbox end cap & prop to keep it going.
Does it have a short water jacket cylinder in good condition? if it does I would say restore it.
Yes you do have a short water jacket, I rechecked your pics, lets hope you can get water through it.
Probably is an S. So what is the L4 all about. Um... there is no points in there! Someone has wired up some electronic gizzos, hence those wires.
Agreed about the water impellor housing, exhaust outlet is round and not flat. Now should I part my '53 not working, to make this a goer? Would the 53 have same ignition?
Yes that's an SD, and as you say it's a World War II model
I would say it's worth restoring - the short water jacket models are scarce, and I'm sure the other Charles will tell you they're a better power head.
The 'coolie hat' magneto is well worth having - they too are scarce, but when you get it going it'll have a spark you could almost weld with.
The purist may well point out all the bits that are later replecements - SD motors had a clutch and I can't see if you've got one, for example - but these worked hard and had all sorts of replacements over the years. I particularly like the carrying handle modification. I wish I'd thought of that one.
Oh - and I've got your serial and JM number for my register - thanks.
Hugo that's magic.
I don't know if the later points box will fit, the mk 1 had a longer cam follower lever but try & let us know.
the JM number would make this a fairly late in the war motor.
Now your going to have to look for another one with a cracked block to bring this one back to the way it should look.
The drive shaft tube should be zinc plated & it should have a clutch with a 2 bladed swept back prop, not the bow tie one.
Where are you in oz?
If the points box won't fit get a old brown atom from a scrap Victa ( think that's how you spell it) lawnmower, the old guy down the road who fixes mowers will have one on the shelf for $10 or less & will tell you how to install it.
You could have this running for Christmas.
If you give us any news on your weather, water conditions & temperature we will cease responding to your posts, & the assistance will stop!
Charles UK wrote:
If you give us any news on your weather, water conditions & temperature we will cease responding to your posts, & the assistance will stop!
As it's horrible here!
I wish it was as you say here, my topless secondary has no concept of sunburnt frizzeld titties and alas I will have to apply the soothing balm. Brighton could be a safer haven.
The other Charles and myself have discussed this one, and we're a bit reluctant to put a date on it. This particular model has to be treated with some care, else they prove unreliable, and indeed dangerous. It's very dangerous to attempt to run two of these at the same time, although many have tried.
There's no sign of non-original parts, and a it's good to see that no attempt has been made to cover anything up.
In my experience they go well, last quite a long time, but are extremely expensive to run. They respond well to expensive fuel and lubricant, seem to require frequent repainting (in some cases daily) and nobody has ever been able to work out what makes them tick.
Help, however, is at hand. There is a manual available from a reputable source:
As always I respond to your absolute experience in these technical matters. I still believe Brighton would let me have the expediency in not having these secondary urges from diverting me from the holy grail of purist belief ie the 'Marston'.
It looks as though I've sourced all the parts to do a restoration ie impellor housing, rear gearbox cover, chokeless cowling and villiers coils (missing as well) and points.
I'll change the box to a clutched one if and when I come across one. I'll attempt to start her before dismantling her. Basically it will be a SDP for a short duration before becoming a SD again.
Amazing how useful it is buying boxes of old parts.
Hi, I was talking to my Pa who was in the Navy (Royal) during WW11 and he said that if the motor was produced for the war effort it would have been stamped with WD. ie War Department. His memory is not infallible. I note that on the SOS website on 102's it makes mention of a WW11 with a broad arrow stamp. What is a broad arrow stamp? Considering the severe rationing at the time it seems highly unlikely that Seagulls where made for leisure or commerce.
