1650bullet wrote:Yes i would use it. It doesnt look like a crack to me. Im looking at the pic threw a 30 inch visatron screen, What does anyone else think . With the cleaning of the bronze parts. Use salt and vinager with a lot of salt. Melt the salt down with a bit of boiled water to dilute it,then tip in the vinager, Leave it all soak overnight and then rinse of the parts using hot water from the tap. Once you have done that quickly use your wire brush and rub them down while everything is still warm. Watch how easy they clean up, Dont dip the wire brush. If anything wash it under the hot water tap. I have found it so much easyer to do it this way.
I am going to use it as i have seen much worse on other engines and on a previous page here HA put up a proper exhaust port crack picture - I am busy resanding the block and crack case as we type
Freudian slip there ^ I of course meant " crank case " It all this "crack" business!
Thanks again for your continued input and patience
1650bullet wrote:H-A. Just have a look again on page 5 of this thread. Ive just had another look and it seems all good on those pics. What do you think
I have looked again, and stand by my original conclusion.
The machined face of the exhaust stub has a step in it, you can see tool marks on the low area and on the higher area.
The left hand portion is expanding outwards due to expansion of rust within the stub.
But it will still work, that is the beauty of Seagulls
1650bullet wrote:H-A. Just have a look again on page 5 of this thread. Ive just had another look and it seems all good on those pics. What do you think
I have looked again, and stand by my original conclusion.
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The machined face of the exhaust stub has a step in it, you can see tool marks on the low area and on the higher area.
The left hand portion is expanding outwards due to expansion of rust within the stub.
But it will still work, that is the beauty of Seagulls
So today i reassembled the seagull as I can't get at it for 2 weeks after today and i thought it best to put it back together so as i remember how it all goes - I still have to do the tank ( can't make my mind up whether to brass it or seek out the original paint colour?) - any how that is a decision for later .
Started this at 2.30pm today.
Water pipe connection bottom of exhaust
Top end with securing wire
finshed at 4.30 - I still have a bit to do - tank - gb gasket - bottom crank case etc - but it is getting there
I put the seagull back together a few weeks ago and gave her a pull - she started first pull and ran like a dream. She pumped water very well and sounded sweet, I had cured the hunting issue and stood back well pleased whilst she ran merrily in the half filled recycling bin - Suddenly after half an hour the water stopped pumping she clattered and I switched her off tout suite - On taking her apart I discovered a shattered impeller - on closer inspection I saw my schoolboy error , I had put the driveshaft tube on 180 degrees out - if you look at the driveshaft tube it is offset and if fitted the wrong way the impeller sits skew whiff in the rebate - A new impeller- gb gasket and £11 lighter she was back on the road so to speak - you gotta laugh
Anyhow - i set her up on the dinghy just to see how it all sits etc and i am pretty well pleased atm - I am stripping the tank ready for a respray but this is how she looks on the back of the boat.
I will sort the tank now I know she is working well and sort out a way to fit the bottom bolts on the bracket ( I can't access the rear inside of the boat as it has a fully built in seat!) I am however enjoying the seagull experience so far
