8 questions from a Newbie Seagull owner

[Swami]

I have recently purchased a TC 102 and just got it home to inspect. It has been running OK (the buyer told me) and it all looks fine on the surface. I will not be getting it running in a tank or on the water for a few days, but prior to that I have some queries in preparation.

1 - The plug supplied is a NKG - A7, and the spare supplied is a Champion D16. Whereas I have seen the D16 as recommended, is the NKG just as suitable? It has MK1 Villiers ignition. It is sparking well with either.

2 - The carb (Amal two jet 46N) looks pretty leaky, top and side and bottom, all around. Is this just a set of washers and gaskets required, or are there any other details to address re fuel leaks?

3 - The steerage handle bracket is broken off the port side lower half of the crankcase . A dodgy but strong mild steel bracket has been attached from the fuel tank mounting bolt points to the steering handle axle. It works fine but is damn ugly and rust inviting. I plan to get the two original parts re-welded (aluminium weld required). What is the simplest dissembly which will safely allow the re-weld? Can I just take off the handle, clean up the joints and have it welded on the whole motor in situ, or do I need to strip the crankcase from the drive; split the crank from the cylinder; remove flywheel and upper engine stuff to safely weld? I am assuming a new crankcase would be more expensive than this basically small welding job.

4 - The prop seems very sloppy on its shaft. Not end play, or spring slack, - but internal bushing slop. How sloppy is too sloppy (yeah - I know - how long is a piece of string?!?!?!)

5 - The serial number says only "TC" - nothing else. I was expecting more numbers for year and month etc. But there is a 31 J on the cylinder side. Is the "31 J" relevant for ID purposes?

6 - Where the water inlet pipe goes from the pump into the silencer there is a 1/4" pipe with 1/4" hose (about 2" long) with screw clamps on it. Is this a sufficient and reliable enough join, or is there a better system? I have not seen any pictures like it on any other TC102 .

7 - As for the height of the motor, my 22" transom on the 12' aluminium dinghy requires the mounting bracket to be fully up (no collars). At that point the water inlet slots are just level with the lowest tip of the keel, which will be about 6" below water surface, making the exhaust outlet about 5" below water level. Is this a tolerable depth to allow full water force in the slots? I figure, if exhaust outlet is too low I will have back pressure probs, but if the water inlet is too high I may have cooling probs due to the transom blocking the flow. I guess I will find a happy medium once travelling in water.

8 - I am composing a shopping list of tools and spares to have on hand onboard at all times:
Plug spanner and spare plug.
Pulley spanner.
Prop spring, and prop removal tools.
Feeler gauges, emery paper.
Basic drivers and spanners.
LIT08 workshop manual (supplied)
WD 40.
Tube of marine grease.
Is a spare HT lead necessary to carry at all times?
Is a carbie kit ever needed on water?
Anything else I should have???

9 - Oh, and where do I adjust the tappets? (<<<only joking)

Thanks in advance to all who can assist.

[gadget]

i had the same problem with the tiller arm bracket on my silver centry, had to strip the lower crank case off to have it welded becouce the mating surfaces had to be honed down becouse of where the weld started/finished. not to bad of a job to do . when i put them together ofter wards i used some high temp silicone sealent ( made by loctite ) to make sure of a good seal.

[erik0905]

hi
Instead of bringing all these spareparts etc. with you, how about a pair of oares and a wife to use them in case of motorproblems.

[CatiGull]

The bracket can be fixed with a low temp or regular Al weld, but you have to take the crankcase apart to do this. I posted a weld report on HTS sometime back if you search on this. To use HTS on the crankcase, you will need oxy acetylene to get the metal hot enough since it is fairly thick.

A used lower crankcase half (including the handle attachment) from John would be the fastest/cheapest way to fix this though - while you ordering that you could get one of repair manuals too, which would cover most of you other questions

I dont like the sound of the water pipe - it sounds like someone has jury rigged ("dodgered" in the UK??) a solution to that - I would replace that with the correct pipe and fittings since you cant see if that fails easily, except by lack of cooling water.

That carb sounds like it needs a rebuild, but once you have done that I don think you need carry spares.

[RickUK]

Hello Swami

1. More or less any plug 18mm x 1/2" reach will be OK - I seem to remember the NGK as A6 but a 7 will only be a slight difference in heat range.
2. A good clean and new fibre washers all round will be fine. Don't wring the neck of the large union nut holding the float bowl to the jet body - these carbs are getting difficult to find now.
4. Sloppy is OK - just replace the prop if a better one comes along, but not critical.
5. Best you can do is tie the TC dates up from info on this site, but about as far as you can go with the serial number obliterated.
The 31J number is just a pattern or casting number.
6. The water connection pipe sounds about right - they are just a push fit, with no clips being fitted - maybe someone was trying to compensate for not having the correct size of pipe. Early pipe was rubber or a rubber composite - later replacements were nylon pipe
7 Water pickup will be fine - the motor draws water rather than depending on pressure, so as long as the pickup area is immersed, that's fine.
8. Just carry a spare plug and spanner, an adjustable spanner or spanners for the carb, and a screwdriver should all you need in the event of a problem. Also a spare prop spring and pair of pliers to twiddle the split pin if necessary. Rick