Serial Number Identifier

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BrendanM

Serial Number Identifier

Post by BrendanM »

:?: What do people think of our new Serial Number Identifier?

Have you tried it?

Did it correctly identify your engine?

Do you have any suggestions on how we might improve it?

Many thanks,
philj
Posts: 86
Joined: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:55 pm
Location: portsmouth uk

Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by philj »

Hi Brendan,
yes it's great, works well and handles spaces and mistakes well.
Good work!
regards
Phil
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40TPI
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Location: North Buckinghamshire, 110 miles south of Yorkshire, England.

Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by 40TPI »

Useful piece of work! Will help a lot of people. I'm sure it had a ton of testing before beta .... Try FPC123B8 ...... obviously misread on the crankcase but honestly entered..........

Peter
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atoyot
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by atoyot »

This feature looks very good. I put myself in the place of a new Seagull owner (or a prospective one) and after entering an engine S/N, found mostly what I'd ever want to know about it's overall ratings and purpose.

That, and the FAQ page offer as much as any amount of separate searching on the web might provide.


-ted
There is nothing so useless as doing efficiently that which should not be done at all.
- Prof. Peter Drucker
rikanaka
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Location: USA

Didn't work for later models

Post by rikanaka »

My 1984 AFPCL##H4 (Model 55) and AF###C4 (Model 45) showed up as 1964 "Manufacture Date" using 10:1 mix. Likewise my 1994 KLR##G4 (Seagull 6, aka Kingfisher) showed up as a 1984 model.
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Charles uk
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by Charles uk »

Your KLR would have shown up as an 1984 motor as you entered G4 which is 1984 not GG4 which is the 1994 code.

It should be a silver one, a Seagull 6, with a steel conrod & an interrupt starter as your in the U S.

Make your last run of the season a 10 : 1 one, as the cranks are very expensive to rebuild & often crack when fitting new pins, any corrosion around the big end after the winter layup usually sounds the death knell for these cranks.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
rikanaka
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by rikanaka »

I entered G4 because that's what it says on the motor. Obviously the coding system broke down in the 90s.
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Charles uk
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by Charles uk »

Is the last number of the serial number a 6? or a G that looks like a 6?
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
rikanaka
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Location: USA

Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by rikanaka »

Image
KLR22G4. Sorry for the image quality. This was the best shot I could get.
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Charles uk
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by Charles uk »

No mistake in reading that number.

Can you take a picture showing the whole motor so I can see if there are any obvious clues.

The "R" would imply that it has a 1990 to 1993 crankshaft, can you confirm this by sliding the carb off the inlet stubb, there should be enough play in the cables & fuel hose to save removing them.

Looking down the inlet port you should be able to see the conrod after you move the piston out of the way, you should be able to see a polished steel conrod, that is quite narrow in section (radius ended diamond shape in section) compared to the aluminium version ( I shaped in section).

If you have the ally rod the crank & conrod have been replaced probably due to flakey big end, not in the least bit unusual.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
rikanaka
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by rikanaka »

Received this email from John yesterday after I emailed him about the discrepancies in the S/N Identifier:
Hello Bob, Sorry for delay, just back from holiday...

thanks for pointing this one out, the AF was an odd one that may well have slipped the net, and electronic ignition model without the 'E' prefix! Also it should have the Amal 416 carb, has yours...?

I will forward this on to my webmaster Brendan, to see if we can fix it.

I can see the problem with the KLR, they did not change the codes to double letters again and some documents do not admit they even made any after 1993, yours is not the first to have a later date... Will have to amend that to 1987 to 1994, re date code, not sure how we will fix this one.... but thanks anyway.

Regards,
John
SOS
Some older pictures of this motor:
Image
Image

Another quote from John on an earlier thread regarding this specific motor:
Golf Trolley is great, I want one too! that will save my poor old back! will have to speak to golfing son in law!!

The Kingfisher you have is a 1994 model, one of the very last. they were only made to order at that stage and made by the girls in the office perhaps. What symbol have you got stampt into the tiller support on the crankcase?

The QB's only ran fron 1987 to 1993, with a few hand built ones later, (they were all hand built!, but later ones were special orders..) Producion had stopped by spring 96.

The 'R' in the number means it has roller bearings in the crank. They are OK only if you stick to 25:1 mix not the 50:1 they origionally reccomended. they had loads of failures.... The crank can be simply changed to the plain one if you have a problem!

Happy Seagulling, or is it golfing?

John
SOS
BrendanM

Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by BrendanM »

Hi All.

Thanks for all your comments, it seems that we got it mostly right fist time (after quite a bit of testing :? )...

Thanks also to rikanaka for pointing out some discrepancies which we were able to fix. :oops:

If anyone else notices discrepancies, it would help everyone if you can point them out to us.

All the best.
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Collector Inspector
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by Collector Inspector »

Hi Brendon, I have this "Aggly One, Date Code" as per below.....

Data Specific To Serial Number 'SJM661L5'

Manufacture Date: Invalid Month Code

Series: The Forty Series

Manufacture Date: 1956 to 1957


Pics Below

Image

Image


December?

Regards

B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
BrendanM

Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by BrendanM »

Collector Inspector wrote:Hi Brendon, I have this "Aggly One, Date Code" as per below.....

Data Specific To Serial Number 'SJM661L5'

Manufacture Date: Invalid Month Code

Series: The Forty Series

Manufacture Date: 1956 to 1957


Pics Below
Hi Collector Inspector,

I think someone has been a bit creative here...

Is your model a longshaft version? If so, then thats what the "L5" at the end of the serial number stands for.

The letter "L" was not used for a month code and anyway month codes were not used until 1963... so if you enter the serial number as "SJM661L" I think it will show you the correct details.

Let me know how you get on, if I am right, I can change the program so that it picks out "L5" and recognises that this means that it is a longshaft model.

All the best,
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Collector Inspector
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Location: Perth Western Australia
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Re: Serial Number Identifier

Post by Collector Inspector »

Hi Brendon, definitely short shaft as it stands a the moment, could have been changed sometime but.

Old Iron Wall is British Imperial between centers.

Image


Thanks for the info, Regards

B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
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