Saving Old Seagulls

I'm surprised that just shutting the plug gap down to 15 thou has made all the difference. I believe you said it was a new plug so it suggests that the ignition system is not up to scratch and is only giving a weak spark under compression. The condenser (In the back of the box that houses the points...

I'm surprised that just shutting the plug gap down to 15 thou has made all the difference. I believe you said it was a new plug so it suggests that the ignition system is not up to scratch and is only giving a weak spark under compression. The condenser (In the back of the box that houses the points...

The timing is 23 1/2 degrees for Forties, Centuries, and 102s Well my 40+ is definitely more than that. As I said earlier its 36° as near as I can determine it but I will rub out all the marks and try again. I'll also double check the 5mm figure. The problem is it is not easy to spot the exact pos...

Just to add to the confusion I have had a look at my 40 plus this morning. As near as can determine the ignition timing is 36º BTDC or 5mm measured on the piston travel (sorry about going metric but I was using a metric depth guage) It is definitely not 50º or 23º for that matter Very surprised b...

I was going to check the timing on mine, which I have had from almost new, tomorrow. It is also the Wipac ignition system but as you say they were a direct replacement for the previous Villiers system. I find it hard to believe that the timing is as much as 23 degrees before TDC. Regarding the posit...

and the timing is 50 degrees BTDC. Can that really be correct? Certainly not correct. Not sure what it will be in degrees but it should be somewhere in the region of 1/8" to 5/32" before tdc measured on the travel of the piston. Assuming the points gap is correct and not way too wide ther...

Ian, Sorry I completely misread the drawing. I've had a look at the engine(s) now so I know where the seal is. It is leaking a little so your suggested replacement might be a good idea. The end float I refered to is not the shaft just the propellor. The 40+ prop is firmly sandwiched between the driv...

Ian, Thanks for the tips. I dont cary a hose but an adaptor for the yard hose would be a good idea then I can flush the engine through before taking it home at the end of a sailing session. To be honest I did not realise there was a sealing washer on the prop shaft. I've looked at the parts diagram ...

Is this one old enough to have the Silver Flywheel magneto with a non sealed coil assembly and a separate condenser. If so inspect the condition of the insulation on the coil. If the condenser is separate it is in the back of the box housing the points. It could be on its last legs ( Later models ei...

I am quite happy that i know which ignition system my engine has as i have the original handbook and parts list. I never stop it by shorting the HT lead or by pulling off the plug cap. There really should be no problem shorting the HT on non elecronic systems as that is how many lawnmowers were/are ...

Thats on Scuttlebutt.
There is also one running on Reader to reader http://www.ybw.com/forums/showflat.php? ... &fpart=all

I did not / do not think that is an electronic ignition system. According to the original parts list that came with the engine it is a "Mark II (Bronze flywheel) ignition assembly" It has a sealed coil module unlike the previous "Mark I (Silver flywheel) assembly" in which all th...

I have always been under the impression that 4 stroking is a symptom of an over rich mixture and that spitting back or sneezing through the carb was a symptom of a weak mixture. My own experiences would be in accordance with that and in the case in point the engine 4 strokes if the carb needle adjus...

My 1974 40 featherweight has been converted to run on a 25:1 fuel mix but in order for it to run smoothly without 4 stroking the needle has to be screwed down much further than the normal position. About 2 to 2½ turns below "flush". Is this OK or is there a risk that this is weakening the...