Saving Old Seagulls

That fuel filter that you have on there" Is that an aftermarket type. Or is it a seagull part. Maybe if you try one single length of fuel line without a fuel filter and see how it runs. If its ok then. Try a different filter. Great job on bringing this one to life to 8) 8) . Ive been following ...

I seem to think if you start modifying exhausts on a seagull, Your going to run into dramas, Playing around with such thing will take the character and nostalgia out of your seagull, Just leave it go and enjoy all of that wonderful noise and smoke that they so lovingly produce.

The Amsoil oil your using, Is it 100% Synthetic>>> Or is it a synthetic blend

I like the brass and or stainless type plugs because i can buy them cheaper than the nylons. They have the hexagon heads to use a spanner or wrench. And is a hell of a lot easyer to undo and tighten up than the nylons. To undo the nylon filler plugs you have to place the motor on the ground and use ...

Keith.P wrote:

1650bullet wrote:Stainless filler plug is the way to go". Better than the plastics ones.

So what's wrong with the brass.

Both are good. Stainless and Brass. Anything is better than the nylon ones.

Comming alone good. Stainless filler plug is the way to go". Better than the plastics ones.

Not up to speed much with this model. But whats that exhaust flap (that he was adjusting) used for.

I don't know if you've tried a Seagull in that bit of water, but when the tide is running, there is a lot of water heading for the sea. I stayed on a yacht 700 meters down river from the Storey bridge on the not the city bank & there was no way that we could move a 42 ft yacht with a 40 hp moto...

Went to have a look at the boat-ramp today. It has a floating pontoon to tie your vessels of while you go and park your car at the carpark. There is a bit of wash that comes from the city cats as they go past, So you may have to tie of pretty hard while you wait. I have a 10ft car topper tinnie, So ...

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: . I did see this add. Hes been trying to sell it for a while. This would of been his latest attempt of relisting. I did remember him stating that its been sitting in the shed for 20yrs, So some E-bayer asked whats his lowest price, He said $450.00 and its yours, I...

Inside Diameter = 11.5 > 12.5mm

Outside Diameter = 17.5 > 18.5mm

Thickness = 5.5mm

http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/products/749-597/

Pm- Me if you have any dramas finding them.

bychance wrote:It wasnt my idea, SAE140 mentions them in a 2006 post!

Ok" Sorry about that bychance, Has worked out to be a very effective way to stop it from leaking thats for sure.

Down here in Australia, Bychance put me onto these, A very small Rubber lipped oil seal that slide over the propshaft and fits between the gearcase bush and brass collar. They do the trick, Just another method to try if you want

If the wire is not broken on the HT Lead itself, You could just join the broken and parted bits of insulation toghether with heat shrink. I was hoping to replace the ht lead with a new one but I guess if that's not possible the heat shrink would be a good alternative. Before I had the flywheel off ...

Well you asked for it Pre war between 8 & 10 to one War time to late 70's between 10 & 15 to one. 70's to 93 15 to 25 to one. All of these ratio's I fatten up if I feel any of the bearings might need tlc. Any of these motors that I've fully rebuilt, bearings/piston, after breaking in fully ...