Saving Old Seagulls

I can only agree with charles, leave it as it is! To my eyes it looks fantastic as is,any attempt to restore the tank will spoil it,use it and enjoy!!
Oh by the way" see you sunday charles"

I acn only agree with chris about carrying basic spares,i only ever run my humble collection in the thames but allways carry at least a spare spring and a multi tool. think may be you should give john a call at sos,maybe he can suggest something we have not mentioned,keep us informed

As a rough guide the exhaust needs to be a couple of inches under any more and you will have problems,see the main site ,there is a section about identifying your motor along with suggested transom heights.
if the exhaust outlet is to far under there will be to much back pressure.
Oh and welcome to ...

This is weird!! With the carb off can you detect if it is sucking? put your hand over the inlet stub and turn it over.
think the others may be right in that its a carb blockage

Hmmm! strange!, Have you still got compresion?ie: you can see the piston going up and down via the plug hole.
Have you cleaned the fuel tap filter?(the gauze in the tank)and the filter in the fuel line(bing carb).
dont suppose the breather in the filler caps blocked?

My thoughts were:1) to let one know when the float bowl was full so you could relese the tickler.
2) To allow any water on top of the fuel to drain off????

Glad its not just me thats having problems with the site!
I to seem to be having real trounle connecting ,its not just my pc as its the same if i try to have sneaky look at work,any one any ideas?

Got to agree with vic on this one, you would be better off doing away with filter altogether rather than use a bit of copper tube.
Give john a ring,i'm sure he can sort you out with a good used assembly,
you could always use a in-line filter (couple of quid from a car shop)if your desperate,i've ...

I use regular black enamel or silver hammerite,never had a problem with these products as i find seagulls never get hot enough to need a heat proof paint.
the only fly in the ointment is that both products are not fuel proof but will resist the normal oil residue etc.

Propwash,what a great idea! if Bruce were to combine that with a longer throttle cable then i think that could be the answer,

Dont mean to spoil the party but why on earth would you want to run a seagull on anything else other than petrol(gas)?
If you need more performance/revs or whatever buy another (bigger) motor,seagulls are sloggers rather than hi-po motors.
here endeth the lesson

Try using a shorter rope on your pullstart,i think once you get confident with your motor you will be ok ( no offence!!)the worse that can happen is you will knock your nuckles on the flywheel!!I have never heard of anyone lossing body parts starting a seagull

Hi,not had any experiance with your problem but think all you would need is a longer throttle cable?

Just a thought, maybe someone at the factory "double stamped" the double o,ground out there mistake then re-stamped the last 0.
Looks a nice clean motor apart from that.I've just treated my steel tanked 40+ with some tank seal from "villearsparts" hopefully will prevent internal corrision :)

Hi hugo,i know your miles away but do you want to sell that carry handle shown on your picture? Its just what i've been looking for.