Saving Old Seagulls

Finally got to take one of my small gulls out for a sea trial this weekend. 3 minutes in and the tap was leaking fuel and then the prop stops spinning while power head purring smoothly. Hmmm. Back to the dock for a check and found two surprises. Firstly the fuel cork was not a cork at all, but perha...

A huge lot for sale in NZ. If anyone has enquired about the details I’d love to see them! FB12DE3F-CFD5-4DD7-9C64-DA077A61C9C0.png FA6E5B73-8DF6-4355-9BC1-195A146E3E28.jpeg 221CCD77-8029-4F5E-B328-BBFE492F9550.jpeg 04EDBF3E-D692-4E67-B112-46ABFF5AB6EC.jpeg 5892956A-D844-4917-812E-F94F1FF5C823.jpeg

a few more pics

I picked up EFPC59EE3 a few years ago, and it has been in storage ever since. Seller told me it was his father's, and that it has never been out of the box. The box has certainly been opened, but looking at the way the engine us mounted in there, I am inclined to believe it has never been removed. C...

I have 2 model 170s from different years in (I think) the early 1980s, and both are helicoiled with what appear to be original heads. I’ve always assumed they were done at the factory since both were helicoiled and I acquired them from different sources.

You can hold the tap with a pair of pliers while you unscrew fuel line nut counter clockwise. Then the tap should unscrew from the tank easily by hand. You can clean/check both then put tap back on first tightly before attaching fuel line. Probably good to check the tap cork while you have it off.

Wouldn't you know it, the prop says 102 on it. I looked before but it was painted over so not obvious.

Any thoughts on what's happening where the exhaust tube meets water pump housing? I don't have my other 102 handy to compare to, but something looks amiss here.

Found this one at an antique marine motor expo over the weekend. Was mostly steam engines, very old inboards and a collection of US outboards, all very fun to see and lots of them were running. This TD was lying on the ground behind a rack of restored motors, and owner was more than happy to part wi...

You were right about the locking wire marks, they're clear in several spots. Guess it didn't last long at all without it!

Here can see the slight bend at the base of the rod:
threads stripped out of conrod:
and big end cap bent out a bit

Finally opened up a 170 I've had a few years. When I got it, the flywheel was loose but would only turn a few degrees in either direction, so I expected it had gone the usual way of conrod/big end failure. At first this seemed to be the case. But this motor has obviously seen a long service life, so...

Could be poor seals on the crankshaft housing causing performance problems. This was addressed recently on another thread:

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=6782

Looks like an SJPL or similar. In Annapolis, Maryland.

https://santafe.craigslist.org/bpo/d/an ... 59264.html

Looking for a bit of advice on removing the drive spring carrier on a 170 (I believe same gearbox as EFNR). I’ve tried gentle prying/tapping but I don’t want to bend/damage the prop shaft, as I’m only able to pry from one side at a time. Gave it decent amount of heat. Pulling it off with brute force...

I wrote the below then just noticed that Charles gave basically same advice. Posting anyway as it may help future readers on the forum who are also having issues with a recoil. Did the recoil work when you last used it? If not, sometimes there is a part left off when these are put back together. Sug...

New project arrived today. AV88 Motobecane Mobylette, 1967 based on the serial. Runs/drives well (as well as a 50 year old stock moped can run). Complete and I believe original (ex tires). Will rebuild stock 49cc engine and also building a spare 74cc that I can pop on if a bit more speed is needed V...