Saving Old Seagulls

My (ongoing) problems with my TC-102, and my discoveries arising from a recent strip and reassembly have led me to conclude the following about oil ratios, loss of power and sloppy bearings.

Purchased motor from stranger on eBay who said the correct fuel ratio was 25:1. Couldn't get carbie jet out ...

Maybe BS could have/should have tossed in a set of stampers for a few extra bob with each conversion kit and a leaflet explaining how to re-mod your serial!

Yeah... great wisdom I/we all have in retrospect!

Re Charles' reply ..... LOL

Charles. Your posts never cease to amaze and amuse me. Is there ANYTHING you DON'T know about British Seagull history???!!!

ROTFLMAO - (Rollng on the floor laughing my arse off) at that brilliant converted golf buggy. Do you take your motor for "walkies" around the suburbs (or the golf course) when it needs the exercise!!! Classic. I WANT ONE!

Isn't it a shame British Seagull didn't invent a computer Operating System in its day :) It would have been simple, reliable, economical, easy to fix DIY, could limp along with only half its facilities fully working, easy to find parts, long lasting, ........... all the things Windows IS NOT. :evil:

From my experience compression testing cars over the years, compression test figures can mean many things. Was your 45psi hot or cold, dry or wet? Does the compression rise up-up-up-up over, many turns or just hit that number on the first pump and stay the same? Have you tried a test with some oil ...

Intermittent spark is most likely due to a loose or chaffed wire somewhere, unless your coil got wet in the journey and now needs drying out. Check back through all the wiring in the system looking for any little places wires might touch out to earth occassionally. Here's the proceedure I would use ...

Maybe you should acquire the workshop manual for your motor. If not running for a while it may need ongoing repairs and adjustments of MANY kinds and all the details and pictures will prove invaluable, although some dormant motors reputedly run with just fresh fuel and few pulls! John (the ...

Yes Enrico. We got lost in fun and games. Your problem is serious. Let us try to help with suggestions for your problems.

The ignition timing is fixed, factory set on Seagulls. The small screw under the ignition back plate locates in a dimple in the upper crankcase, that’s it. If this screw is in ...

For all those curious to know the Danish instructions Erik left Enriko, here is a freebie web translation for you to all follow in similar situations.

"The diskette shall sit where the sits , catching you tighter the screw , it is no possible , that justify ignition. That dim you denominator , is ...

An equally effective home made custom length accellerator cable can be made by using 1/4" steel automotive brake line tubing (or else 1/4" copper tubing as the outer sheath and then some small diam fencing wire as inside cable. In my putt-putt boats of yore I used this system for remote throttle at ...

I've had a similar problem recently. In the end the cause was found only after completely stripping the sparking system to find that the old insulation on the primary coil wire (the one going between points and coil) was cracked and worn through in several places causing intermittently good and bad ...

Firstly, there are two kinds of people in the world: Petro-chemists and the rest of us! My theory on this matter is as follows.

Since the old days of combustion engine invention, everything, repeat everything, has become much more complex and specialised in engineering. In those simpler days of ...

Here's a link. Check it out. Could be what all we old seagullers need ....... for the motors, that is .... but also maybe for those rusty body joints! Just a few litres in the evening bath! Looks like it is an Aussie product but could be available worldwide.

http://www.liquideng.com.au/corrodip ...

>>> Rick Wrote: The studs holding the points box on only need the nuts taking off from the bottom - ie they are not tapped holes. They will have corroded in over the years, and just need gentle use of a punch to get them moving in the casting. The flanges on the studs are just to mount the condensor ...