Saving Old Seagulls

By the sounds of things you might be onto the cause of your troubles.
You are correct in that the factory setting for the needle jet is FLUSH with the top of the slide. However the manual does suggest that 2 full turns down from flush is still within limits. Not really worth going too rich with the ...

Interestingly weakening the mixture (screwing one whole turn below top of carburettor piston has improved things. Gone to one and a half. This is way out of kilter with the factory preset but seems to work. Still running very lumpily (ie revs go up and down without change of throttle or raising ...

Check the fuel mixture screw in the throttle slide. You have the manual there so should be easy for you.

At this point it's possible you might be running too lean or rich in the carb giving you the same symptoms. ( what you describe as "discharge" through the carb). Chances are that the powerhead ...

Did you check the mating surfaces on the crankcase halves. They have to be flat ie no high or low spots.

What did you use to seal the case when putting back together.......

BnC
I did visually check and used steel rule where possible. Cleaned with thinners. Used vtech vital red silicone gasket ...

Update.
Fuel tank is fine, no water present.
Starts fine and runs wonderfully suggesting spark, gaps etc fine. No discharge from carburettor. After about five minutes of running or so start to get a discharge from carb, definitely an emulsion like mix of water and oil. White in appearance ...

Gaps stated are imperial so should read 0.020 for points and 0.035 for spark plug although also tried .020 which is recommended in the service manual but I noted John at SOS recommends .035 and have tried both. No change. The ignition is the MkII type as shown in the service manual for a plus 40. It ...

Hi

Problem: Seagull plus 40 engine starts every time when cold, runs for a while then once hot starts to slow and at best chugs along finally stalling.

My faithful old seagull has suddenly developed a fault which I am struggling with. This was working fine after a rebuild in the winter, plenty of ...

Excellent advice and pic. Many thanks. Glad I checked now before I started reassembly. I had firmly put my acrylic lacquer spray away as had read that it is not happy with oil and petrol however I do not propose to rinse this in petrol too often (although in flight refills....)

Thx

I have a magneto with mild rust on the 'clean' face - which I guess fine emery paper will cure - but also rust on the painted body. This is more severe although the laminations appear sound still. I have read a thin coat of varnish can be used safely on magnetos to give rust protection - is this ...

Many thanks for this excellent advice. Saved me making a mess. What I thought was a rubber seal is in fact the bush as I now realise when giving it a prod with a sharp instrument. It can stay there, a little leakage of oil to deter rust on the main shaft is a bonus.

Thanks

Two parts to this:
1. Is it worth replacing the rubber oil seals visible on the drive shaft and on the propeller shaft? I assume the real sealing is done in between the bush and shafts of these in which case how important are these seals? If I have it all apart (which I nearly do - see below) then ...