Saving Old Seagulls

Theoretically of course a small ring gap is better -provided of course under running conditions there is a gap, but maybe a large gap (ie 0.031) doesn't make any real difference???

I think you answered your own question, Jeremy. In a high performance, high compression engine the gap becomes ...

Hamilton Marine in Searsport, Maine is marine hardware heaven. Not in Canada, but at least on the same continent. I'm sure they'll ship to you, but if not I can pick up what you need and send it out. http://www.hamiltonmarine.com

Todd

I recently found a CPC powerhead assembly (CPCL1471E4) which had attached a cylinder with visibly larger transfer ports than those found on my own CPC (CPC136A6), and also a larger, bridged exhaust port. The cylinder head was different, too, in that it had a raised internal area to fit the contour ...

Here are plans for an 8' version:

http://www.instantboats.com/skimmer.htm

Like Rob, my first thought was the air vent on the fuel cap. Try it with the cap removed, or at least really loose. Maybe the vent itself is plugged with gas-goo. I don't think an air leak is your problem, my best running 40+ pumps alot of oil past the bushings and weeps a bit at the tiller mount ...

I've never found float level specs for any of the Seagull carbs, either in the Clymers or the Seagull service manuals. I have, however, seen a couple of figures elsewhere, probably in this forum, for the Villiers float level: With the needle seated, a 3/16" drill bit will just fit under the hooks of ...

after two years of sitting no water again

If you're running it in a bucket, remove the prop. Turbulence and aeration can inhibit water flow.
More likely than the rotor being bad is a blockage, perhaps from insects, etc. Place a nozzle in the water outlet and try flushing back through. If no joy ...

Hugz wrote:Definitely an offset spanner. Particulary useful for inner driveshaft tube flange nut. (3/16W.1/4BS other end 1/4W.5/16BS)

S.O.S. John had these for sale for awhile as part of a tidy tool kit, but no longer. Is there another source, or does anyone have one they'd care to sell?

Todd

Really nicely done, Phil. I suspect that one gets a place in the office.

Say, how did you manage the pictures!?

I had some luck fixing a loose mag plate on my CPC by removing it and dimpling the crankcase mating surface with a prick punch. Many, many dimples. This raises the surface enough to fill the gap between the crankcase bearing flange and the mag plate. Try a few then test the fit to judge how many and ...

Phil,

Um, yeah, I see what you mean. I copied your img code directly from your last post :

http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp292/phil_014/100_1240-1.jpg [/img]

Removing the inner 's:

http://i421.photobucket.com/albums/pp292/phil_014/100_1240-1.jpg

It works, so I suspect you've got an ...

Phil,

After you've selected the S.O.S Img option from above the text box, paste the Photobucket IMG code inside it;

http://i683.photobucket.com/albums/vv195/Seagull70/SargentSkiff010.jpg [/img]

Then delete the inside (Photobucket's) set of IMG phrases and check with the preview.

Voila ...

Sometimes the crank will run dry, but not for very long. The oil you mix with the gas keeps things humming nicely along. You should slather the bearings with some unmixed two stroke oil or a light grease such as Lubriplate 105.

That looks to be a steal Phil, provided it'll run at more than 1/4 throttle. If you know what I mean...

Are you going to check it out?

Todd

dalliance wrote: how do i seat the rings

Just put it back together and when ready, mix up a batch of fuel using non-synthetic oil and run it fairly hard, varying the throttle settings. The rings will seat themselves within a tankful or two.