where to get 140 oil ?
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where to get 140 oil ?
Anyone know any nationwide suppliers that stock this oil ? I am in Milton Keynes.
I just picked up a model 102, number ACR445, my first Seagull motor, I love the little machines already ! I Set the points, cleaned the carb out, and it fired first pull. I've got the tank soaking full of caustic soda, three fills so far and I'm still getting truly evil gunge out of it.
I feel a new obsession coming on !
The gear lever was mounted in correctly through the large hole, I thought it looked wrong, I'm puzzled what the big hole is for ? Is this the correct 102 gear lever ?
I just picked up a model 102, number ACR445, my first Seagull motor, I love the little machines already ! I Set the points, cleaned the carb out, and it fired first pull. I've got the tank soaking full of caustic soda, three fills so far and I'm still getting truly evil gunge out of it.
I feel a new obsession coming on !
The gear lever was mounted in correctly through the large hole, I thought it looked wrong, I'm puzzled what the big hole is for ? Is this the correct 102 gear lever ?
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
If it's the one from ebay, then i'd say you might have your work cut out for a while on that one.
Re the gear lever-- no it's the wrong lever fitted. The correct 102 clutch lever only has 1 hole for the stud to fit through. What you have there is a later century type lever (2 holes for mounting, the smaller hole is for the rod) but it will still work fine.
As for oil, there are a couple of suppliers on flea bay. I've just bought 5 litres of the stuff for £16 and free postage which i thought was a bargain.
140 grade oil is certainly getting hard to find these days in bulk. 1 litre bottles there's a lot of people selling them all over the place.
Bulk works out cheaper though.
best of luck
jon
Re the gear lever-- no it's the wrong lever fitted. The correct 102 clutch lever only has 1 hole for the stud to fit through. What you have there is a later century type lever (2 holes for mounting, the smaller hole is for the rod) but it will still work fine.
As for oil, there are a couple of suppliers on flea bay. I've just bought 5 litres of the stuff for £16 and free postage which i thought was a bargain.
140 grade oil is certainly getting hard to find these days in bulk. 1 litre bottles there's a lot of people selling them all over the place.
Bulk works out cheaper though.
best of luck
jon
Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Try a local farm supplies outlet - machinery etc. Thats where I bought some about five years back, Castrol Agri 140 EP.
About £18 for 5 ltr. Its common on older farming equipment.
Geoff
About £18 for 5 ltr. Its common on older farming equipment.
Geoff
Re: where to get 140 oil ?
You can buy 140 oil from SOS
Half way down this page
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/bu ... /ep140.jpg
also online from Smith and Allan in Darlington
but if you mean from a store then as has been said Farmer Supply companies
Half way down this page
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/bu ... /ep140.jpg
also online from Smith and Allan in Darlington
but if you mean from a store then as has been said Farmer Supply companies
1965 40 - 1990 55 - 1954 - Little Forty -1986 EF
Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Smith and Allan sell on eBay too. I bought a gallon a few years ago free postage and it is still half full!
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Is there a short term substitute for 140 oil I can use ?
The lever
The lever
Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Not recommended, but maybe an oil and grease mix may help, but that's down to you what you use.
P.S. nice keyring.
P.S. nice keyring.
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Use some Hypoid 90 , works fine just leaks a bit quicker, so top up regularly.waterworks wrote:Is there a short term substitute for 140 oil I can use ?
Later Seagull boxes used 90, all internals are the same , just a couple of seals in the box.
H-A
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Keyring?
As for a replacement lever,have a look for century clutch lever for now, unless you spot an nice "original".
Most bits will swap over with little fuss.
As for a replacement lever,have a look for century clutch lever for now, unless you spot an nice "original".
Most bits will swap over with little fuss.
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
I left the tank overnight with bio washing powder , that's done the trick.
Is this eBay item the correct 102 lever
321820162296
Is this eBay item the correct 102 lever
321820162296
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
No, that's the later type for later 102's and century's.
Bearing in mind that your motor has been factory re-furbished (hence the letter R in the serial number now) your motor probably would have been "updated" at some point.So this later type of clutch lever was put on because that's what was available at the time.
There have been a few discussions in the past as to what exactly was done or replaced/renewed during a "factory re-furb". Basically from what i can gather, the motor would have to be like new in order to pass muster. Anything that fell below a certain acceptable level or wear limit was replaced.
Going by a serial number alone is just the start of it. It's the reading between the lines that takes time.
If we took the original serial number to be AC445 (leave out the R for now) that would make your 102 a very early post war 102 with a build date between 1946/7. Many things will have been replaced on your motor by now compared to how it would have looked when new.
Depending on how accurate you want to be with your resto, either type of lever will fit quite happily.
Send me a pm and i'll be happy to discuss this further with you
The proper one is pictured below
jon
Bearing in mind that your motor has been factory re-furbished (hence the letter R in the serial number now) your motor probably would have been "updated" at some point.So this later type of clutch lever was put on because that's what was available at the time.
There have been a few discussions in the past as to what exactly was done or replaced/renewed during a "factory re-furb". Basically from what i can gather, the motor would have to be like new in order to pass muster. Anything that fell below a certain acceptable level or wear limit was replaced.
Going by a serial number alone is just the start of it. It's the reading between the lines that takes time.
If we took the original serial number to be AC445 (leave out the R for now) that would make your 102 a very early post war 102 with a build date between 1946/7. Many things will have been replaced on your motor by now compared to how it would have looked when new.
Depending on how accurate you want to be with your resto, either type of lever will fit quite happily.
Send me a pm and i'll be happy to discuss this further with you
The proper one is pictured below
jon
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
I'm ordering some 140 oil from Smith and Allen. They sell three types,
EP 140
Hypoid 140
SAE 140
Which is the right one ?
The EP is far cheaper than the other two. So there will have to be a good reason to buy anything else.
EP 140
Hypoid 140
SAE 140
Which is the right one ?
The EP is far cheaper than the other two. So there will have to be a good reason to buy anything else.
Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Howdy.
The EP rating identifies a gear oil with modifiers(1) to help it withstand Extreme Pressure such as are seen in automotive gear boxes (i.e. gears whose teeth meet at an angle(2) & on parallel shafts) and differentials(3) (where their shafts meet at other than within the same plane). Old tractors and non-syncronised gear boxes tend to use straight-cut gears and regular beveled ring and pinion gearing at the axle (close to what a Seagull uses in the bottom end) and can use about anything that is slippery(4), yet thick enough to stay on the works.
That being the case, I'd expect the the hypoid 140 to be a similar product to the EP and in any case, better than what's required. The Seagull doesn't seem to require anything like that - though, as long as the EP stuff happens to be the more economical of your choices, it can't hurt to use it over a basic, straight gear oil of the same weight. You can't hurt the thing by using a "better" oil than that which was recommended; in theory, one could go full synthetic if you don't mind pouring money straight into the channel.
1 - http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.p ... _additives
2 - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_(mechanics)
3 - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiral_bevel_gear
4 - NOT to be taken literally
The EP rating identifies a gear oil with modifiers(1) to help it withstand Extreme Pressure such as are seen in automotive gear boxes (i.e. gears whose teeth meet at an angle(2) & on parallel shafts) and differentials(3) (where their shafts meet at other than within the same plane). Old tractors and non-syncronised gear boxes tend to use straight-cut gears and regular beveled ring and pinion gearing at the axle (close to what a Seagull uses in the bottom end) and can use about anything that is slippery(4), yet thick enough to stay on the works.
That being the case, I'd expect the the hypoid 140 to be a similar product to the EP and in any case, better than what's required. The Seagull doesn't seem to require anything like that - though, as long as the EP stuff happens to be the more economical of your choices, it can't hurt to use it over a basic, straight gear oil of the same weight. You can't hurt the thing by using a "better" oil than that which was recommended; in theory, one could go full synthetic if you don't mind pouring money straight into the channel.
1 - http://www.substech.com/dokuwiki/doku.p ... _additives
2 - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Transmission_(mechanics)
3 - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spiral_bevel_gear
4 - NOT to be taken literally
There is nothing so useless as doing efficiently that which should not be done at all.
- Prof. Peter Drucker
- Prof. Peter Drucker
- Charles uk
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Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Whatever you use must be able to form an emulsion if used in an unsealed box.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: where to get 140 oil ?
Naturally...
I found this site, with a choice that may fulfill the need: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-813-sae-140-gear-oil.aspx
This also is one way to go: http://r.ebay.com/oqBZ9e At GBP 10.50 / US$ 16.52, it's not terrible if it lasts two or three seasons; I'm used to paying only 2/3 that price for a similar quantity of Mobil 1 full synthetic for the tow vehicle.
One thing I've run into this morning while brushing up on this topic is that GL-5 rated gear oil is not recommended, because of sulfur compounds which are said to attack brass and bronze. A more authoritative citation is needed though one might want to look into that a bit first. I did see the "original" Seagull 90W EP photo up the page...
I found this site, with a choice that may fulfill the need: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-813-sae-140-gear-oil.aspx
This also is one way to go: http://r.ebay.com/oqBZ9e At GBP 10.50 / US$ 16.52, it's not terrible if it lasts two or three seasons; I'm used to paying only 2/3 that price for a similar quantity of Mobil 1 full synthetic for the tow vehicle.
One thing I've run into this morning while brushing up on this topic is that GL-5 rated gear oil is not recommended, because of sulfur compounds which are said to attack brass and bronze. A more authoritative citation is needed though one might want to look into that a bit first. I did see the "original" Seagull 90W EP photo up the page...
There is nothing so useless as doing efficiently that which should not be done at all.
- Prof. Peter Drucker
- Prof. Peter Drucker