Saving Old Seagulls

Just bought another "old" engine from my local car boot sale, Mariner 3.3hp Forward and Neutral.
It was seized solid. luckily high in the stroke.

Took the head off, cleaned the bore . Applied some heat and WD40.
Managed to free the piston, bore clean.

Starts well, pumps well not bad for £40.00.

3.3hp Very light, must be half the weight of a seagull.
Bad bit is that the spares price is much higher than a seagull.

H-A

verry nice looking motor....cheap at £40...bargain my friend... not tested my forty yet but will keep you posted!!

An excellent buy - but it's from another world ... just check out the cost of impellor repair kits !

The 'gulls everlasting impellors was the first thing that attracted me to 'em. Sensible engineering.

Have now got it in bits , 74cc loop charged. Reed valve inlet 3.3 hp.

Internals look in good condition, but main bearings are showing signs of a little rust.

So the plan is to replace them, along with the oil seals.

May try to use non genuine bearings, the original ones have a little peg in the outer to stop rotation.
Will glue the new ones in with Loctite. Any one have experience of trying this?

Should still be a cheap engine.

H-A

hi there, locktite is pretty good but if you can get hold of some hydraulic joint sealing compound it works better because locktite isn't designed for oily applications.
i often use it in the motor trade where locktite has usually failed...
try it you will be surprised.

I pick up a Mariner 2hp £15, Yamaha did the same model, I think.
Also from a car boot, ran first time, put it away and forgot about it, I did go out and buy all the up to date Mercury mariner manuals.

I was going to try this.

http://www.henkel.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/SI ... 000000IZT4

Who makes the hydraulic joint sealing compound ?

H-A

i usually get mine from the local vauxhall dealers, it's the stuff they use when rebuilding auto gearboxes but i would think that you could get it from any main dealers if you ask them..the tube stuff i use is green and costs £18 for a 125ml tube but it lasts for ages as you only need a small dab on the surface to be bonded and it sets and seals pretty mutch straight away once the components have been assembled.
i can't recall the name but i'll let you know tomorrow night

the make of the jointing compound is hermatite-green...product number HAM7410015
hope this info is ok for you
all the best with the rebuild+good luck

A trick we used on bearings rotating in their housing was to centre punch in several places around the inside of the
housing. Each pop mark you make causes the outside of the dimple to swell giving the bearing a tighter fit. I should explain
that this treatment was used on electric motors not on outboards but I see no reason why the same priniple shouldn't apply.
A word of caution, don't be too heavy handed with the hammer on the casting. Also, don't try to centre pop the bearing.

Green Loctite bearing retainer is designed for oily situations, stud locker & thread locker isn't!

Center punching the bearing housing is not recommended by the bearing manufacturers as it's difficult to do evenly & will often put an uneven side load or a slight twist into the bearing OD.

Bearing retainer will fill up to a 10 thou gap if I remember right.