Saving Old Seagulls

It looks like timing is the issue?

As I asked John at SOS about the depth of the key way slot and the pointer that I can drop in 22mm down it?

Hello Roy,

if the key was in the keyway it should not go in at all.

Regards,
John
SOS

The Wipac coil was the fault, it showed a spark when the start line was pulled but when the motor was power turned over with an electric drill connected the spark started then vanished.

With a spare and old Wipac fitted the motor fired up first time and ran perfectly.

Good result, glad you got it going

Journeyman wrote:Good result, glad you got it going

Thanks, this was no fast or easy fix, I started with the engine in 2017, then gave up as it would not start.

This time I continued trying for longer but giving up was becoming close.

Even checking the coil and when I found it read ok on the meter was throwing me out.

The trick with the power drill was the way to go, next time I will start by doing the same.

A re furbished petrol tank and with the British Seagull transfer on it may be the next addition?

For now I have emptied the carb and petrol tank and put the motor into my store.

I have today fitted another tank, the original one is REALLY mashed on one end and needs cutting open to re shape the end before refitting it.

The one on the engine now has the fuel tap drain on the wrong side but I have connected it easy enough and its fit for purpose.

The trick with the power drill was the way to go, next time I will start by doing the same.

If you give this process some thought you will realize this might not be the way to go, It's not too bad when your looking for a spark with the spark plug removed & the fuel turned on, but when the spark plug is in place you've built yourself a form of impact driver that is tightening the flywheel nut every time you start it!

Using this process we've had people snap the thread off the end of the crankshaft & force the flywheel further down the crankshaft taper, not very funny when your trying to remove the flywheel!

Charles uk wrote:

The trick with the power drill was the way to go, next time I will start by doing the same.

If you give this process some thought you will realize this might not be the way to go, It's not too bad when your looking for a spark with the spark plug removed & the fuel turned on, but when the spark plug is in place you've built yourself a form of impact driver that is tightening the flywheel nut every time you start it!

Using this process we've had people snap the thread off the end of the crankshaft & force the flywheel further down the crankshaft taper, not very funny when your trying to remove the flywheel!

The load on the crank shaft was minimal, fuel tap in the off position, spark plug removed, spin the engine up and then with the spark plug grounded, check for a spark.

I cannot think of another way to do this as easily?

Removal of the flywheel was done at least twice more and only a slight tap with my copper faced hammer was required.

fuel tap in the off position,

Does this mean you run the risk of dry areas in a total loss lubricatiion system?

My mistake it read like you were starting the motor this way.

Charles uk wrote:

fuel tap in the off position,

Does this mean you run the risk of dry areas in a total loss lubricatiion system?

My mistake it read like you were starting the motor this way.

Today I am working on a 1973 Century motor, I have not run it for some years, it went well back then.

I am doing a cosmetic job on it, so while the motor was in the vice, i removed the plug, then to lubricate the crank and piston I poured oil and 2 stroke fuel into the intake and also the exhaust

I then ran the flywheel up with the electric drill, with the spark plug connected I saw that there is a very good and strong spark.

It has Wipac 2 ignition.

Using the power drill and the flexible rod connection I was also able to spin up the flywheel and with 60 grit floor paper remove the old paints ready for new paints tomorrow.

Be careful no grit gets drawn into the intake port.

Hugz wrote:Be careful no grit gets drawn into the intake port.

Very good avice, thanks.

Have to agree with others using an electric drill to start a seagull or check for spark is not necessary and could damage
your motor. Now I see you using the drill just to make sanding easier please take care.
John

Personally i would have removed the flywheel from the engine and run it through a bench grinder with a wire wheel attachment.
Much quicker and easier. No risk to the engine either from dust ingress or dry running. Gives you a chance to go through and look at the points once you have it all exposed like that and probe at the coil with a multi-meter if its suspect.

I agree with Charles. Using an electric drill on a seagull can do more harm than good. That's what the rope starter is for.