Rusty spark plug removal

[Plaxtonman]

Hi. Newbie with 2 Old Segulls, possibly terminal as they are in a bad shape. Trying to take one apart to see how bad it is, the spark plug is rusted in place and won't budge any advice gladly accepted. Jim

[andrew]

Welcome to the forum!

Many ways to get a rusty plug out, depending on what your goals are and condition of motor. Photos and/or serial numbers are very helpful in suggesting an approach.

Are you hoping to restore mechanically or cosmetically or both?

Generally speaking, soaking with penetrating oil for day or two always a good start. Try to angle the motor while it rests so that the oil around the plug seal can pool a bit and seep into the cracks. If no movement after that then gentle to moderate heat on/around the plug threads, a good grip on the plug, and a gentle knock on the wrench should break the seal. Approach should be tailored by the type of motor you are working on, which can be determined by the serial number.

Seagulls are amazingly robust and simple motors, designed for easy maintenance with limited tools. I’m sure you can get one or both of yours running!

[Collector Inspector]

As Above and do not be afraid to heat it.

HOT

B[/b

EDIT: I am assuming that you have the required tools and that you know how tight a problem plug can be.

[Plaxtonman]

Thank you both for your replies, FP69A8, John from SOS has suggested that it is by its sell by date which I agree with, just using this as a project as retired and enjoy doing things like this.I would like to take it appart without wrecking it totally, maybe find a home for parts that are useable. Jim

[andrew]

Never count a seagull out!

Any visible cracks in the cylinder?
Do the flywheel/prop still turn?
Have you checked ignition/coil?

Multimeter will confirm coil condition (see SOS site for details) but the Wipac MK2’s have generally held up well. Villiers carbs almost always work with a proper servicing.

If you’re going to strip the whole thing apart as a project, then you will definitely want to use lots of heat from a torch. That part of the process cannot be understated. Heat, a good set of whitworth spanners and some mole grips and you may be surprised how it all comes apart even in the worst of conditions.

[Plaxtonman]

Hi, the whole thing is seized, got the nut of the flywheel but its stuck fast and had lots of powdered metal inside.Got a few nuts and screws off using heat but all my tools are metric.The prop. is off and have drained out the thick goo, having problems with the flat headed screw at the base of the two pipes but hopefully more heat will suffice. Can't get the fuel tank off as it appears to have welded itself to the legs it sits on, carb is off bar throttle cable.
What is the most common Whitworth sizes I woul need? Thanks in advance. Jim

[andrew]

I think 3/16, 1/4 and 5/16 whitworth spanners are the ones I regularly use across all types of seagulls. Sockets in same sizes also helpful (both standard and deep sockets are handy if that’s an option)

For the flat head screw at base of the leg, if it’s the recessed one between the pipes an impact driver should do the job, and if it’s the protruding one at the front preferably an impact driver but also a pair of mole grips could work.

If using grips on the front one you risk stripping the head from the bolt (happens maybe half the time on that bolt on stubborn motors), but that’s not terminal as you can then easily get a pair of grips on the remaining stud once apart. Similarly for the middle one, worst case you can drill the head out and extract the stud with grips. I have done this many times and never found a stud that wouldn’t come out eventually, with enough heat, perseverance and cursing.

Always with lots of heat, get the threads extremely hot.

Fuel tank, provided you got the nuts off (shouldn’t be too hard as they are bronze on bronze), you can break the decades-old gunk seal with gentle taps on the tank and/or studs from underneath, a piece of wood between hammer and tank will help prevent damage, and leaving the nuts protruding slightly from end of studs can help prevent thread damage if you go that route. Slow and steady for this part, the tank metal and threads are soft and prone to damage.

[Plaxtonman]

Hi, I have the protruding screws out using plenty of heat, I'll continue with the centre one using heat, I'm a bit wary of drilling out screws (coward), as for the fuel tank I'll take your advice and go canny.
I love forums as there is so much info out there, used them for the different cars I've owned. Once again thanks. Jim

[Plaxtonman]

Hi, Heat is certainly a game changer lol, managed the spark plug with heat and Mole Grips, saw a video the other day about using an Allen key to tighten the adjusting screw, worked a treat, got the gearbox opened up an got rid of the creamy sludge, still strugling with the screw keeping the gearbox attached, even got the throttle cable working. Once again thanks for the help. Jim

[Hugz]

Creamy sludge is probably correct. The oil is designed to emulsify with ingressed water. I describe it the colour as baileys irish cream. What is this allen key trick?

[andrew]

Some of the newer grips have Allan key fitting in the end of the tightening bolt. Definitely useful in loosening the grips when they are clamped tight.

[Hugz]

Ahh. Just checked mine... no allen key fitting. Can't say l have ever had trouble opening my vice (as they are known down here ) grips. Interesting. You tighten your grip as well.

[andrew]

None of my grips have the Allan key socket either, but I’ve seen them in the stores and thought the extra feature wouldn’t hurt the next time I need a new pair.

I’ve had a couple experiences where the grips are clamped so tight I end up using a second pair of grips, pliers or even hammer to compress the release lever! Then they inevitably spring off in the wrong direction