Seized 102 power head
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
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- Location: uk
Re: Seized 102 power head
Roy
With regards to pinion gears for "barge pusher" gearboxes.
The pinion gear for these bigger boxes will be much longer in length compared to the more common 2.5 to 1 ratio boxes. They won't be a direct swap and number of teeth on gears will be different too. 4:1 ratio for the big box and 2:5 to 1 for the common box. 4:1 propeller is BIG. REALLY BIG at nearly 13 inches thereabouts when you compare it to a common 102 prop at 9 inches. Clutch fork will be a longer size too.
I might have a spare barge pusher box in my spares if you need one.
RE your powerhead, exactly as H-A mentions.
Many of these seagull engines will respond very well after a good clean up. Out with the spanners. All fairly straight forward stuff.
With regards to pinion gears for "barge pusher" gearboxes.
The pinion gear for these bigger boxes will be much longer in length compared to the more common 2.5 to 1 ratio boxes. They won't be a direct swap and number of teeth on gears will be different too. 4:1 ratio for the big box and 2:5 to 1 for the common box. 4:1 propeller is BIG. REALLY BIG at nearly 13 inches thereabouts when you compare it to a common 102 prop at 9 inches. Clutch fork will be a longer size too.
I might have a spare barge pusher box in my spares if you need one.
RE your powerhead, exactly as H-A mentions.
Many of these seagull engines will respond very well after a good clean up. Out with the spanners. All fairly straight forward stuff.
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Re: Seized 102 power head
Thanks, I am busy with a friends Forty motor right now, I will next see about opening the seized 102 motor using your adviceHorsley-Anarak wrote:Remove flywheel and magneto base and you will find the other 2 nut.african imp wrote:
Looking at the block I see two bolt heads, how do I access the other two please?
Pull the piston out and clean the bore, I would have done this first, so that I did not damage the bore more.
H-A
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Re: Seized 102 power head
Thanks, I will give that a try !Horsley-Anarak wrote:Remove flywheel and magneto base and you will find the other 2 nut.african imp wrote:
Looking at the block I see two bolt heads, how do I access the other two please?
Pull the piston out and clean the bore, I would have done this first, so that I did not damage the bore more.
H-A
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Re: Seized 102 power head
Thanks on the advice.Charles uk wrote:Bent crankshaft, cracked bore.
This restoration will require the use of a spanner.
Will John at SOS have another con rod for me I wonder?
Not required, the one in the motor looks good but I cannot move the piston any further down the bore.
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Re: Seized 102 power head
With the gasket pulled out of the way the block can be viewed, I see no sign of a crack, the piston has stuck though and I cannot move it further out of the bore.
Some heat on the block may be required?
This motor did not need cleaning, the alloy and the black paint on the block look really good.
Whats, next, this is my first Seagull piston removal ( attempt )
Some heat on the block may be required?
This motor did not need cleaning, the alloy and the black paint on the block look really good.
Whats, next, this is my first Seagull piston removal ( attempt )
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Re: Seized 102 power head
Lubrication and push back in might be an issue with rings.
Roll me up and smoke me when I die
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
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- Charles uk
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Re: Seized 102 power head
Look in the inlet port, it might be a broken ring caught in there, or an upside down piston, it might unlock with a small screwdriver.
It looks like you might get the wrist pin out & separate the crank from the cylinder.
You will damage it if you get heavy handed!
It looks like you might get the wrist pin out & separate the crank from the cylinder.
You will damage it if you get heavy handed!
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
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Re: Seized 102 power head
tambikeboy wrote:Lubrication and push back in might be an issue with rings.
I have the motor the correct way up and filled with a thin oil mix, it can stay that way over night, then I will push the piston back up and see what happens when I try to push it back down.
I used some soft Obeche wood to knock it this way down and with a one pound copper faced hammer.
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Re: Seized 102 power head
Moving the piston back in required the use of a large G clamp, even then it was tight, it slackened off as the piston reached the top.
I may be able to fashion a press tool using the thread in the plug hole?
The assembly i.s now back in the vice and I have used the soft obeche wood tool to knock the piston back down.
It will be possible to place a protection pad down the exhaust and on to the top of the piston to prevent damage?
I may be able to fashion a press tool using the thread in the plug hole?
The assembly i.s now back in the vice and I have used the soft obeche wood tool to knock the piston back down.
It will be possible to place a protection pad down the exhaust and on to the top of the piston to prevent damage?
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Re: Seized 102 power head
If I could remove the pin in the piston I would but the piston needs to come out another 3mm to allow me to do that.Charles uk wrote:Look in the inlet port, it might be a broken ring caught in there, or an upside down piston, it might unlock with a small screwdriver.
It looks like you might get the wrist pin out & separate the crank from the cylinder.
You will damage it if you get heavy handed!
I prodded up the exhaust but felt nothing stuck in there.
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Re: Seized 102 power head
I have removed the piston, it was not any easy job, I will post the pictures in the morning
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- Posts: 395
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Re: Seized 102 power head
It was clear to me that only a controled physical force would move the piston, banging the top of the piston with a rod and a hammer would break the piston?
I used a piece of plywood with a socket hole in it as the cushion pad on top of the piston, then a 13mm 316 stainless steel rod as the pressing tool, the G clamp was the required pressure I needed.
It still took a fair amount of winding up the G clamp, far more than I expected?
Then right at the end of the process out it popped, the line that was tied around the con rod stopped the piston assembly from falling on the floor.
I used a piece of plywood with a socket hole in it as the cushion pad on top of the piston, then a 13mm 316 stainless steel rod as the pressing tool, the G clamp was the required pressure I needed.
It still took a fair amount of winding up the G clamp, far more than I expected?
Then right at the end of the process out it popped, the line that was tied around the con rod stopped the piston assembly from falling on the floor.
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- Posts: 395
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:44 am
- Location: Hout Bay
Re: Seized 102 power head
The rings are the problem, I still need to remove them and test the bare piston on the bore, a spare piston I have slides in easy enough.
I had worried that the bore was a taper? wedge shaped, open at the top anc closed at the bottom, how I could not work out?
The spare piston I have slides in with ease, so I guess I am ok?
I had worried that the bore was a taper? wedge shaped, open at the top anc closed at the bottom, how I could not work out?
The spare piston I have slides in with ease, so I guess I am ok?
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- Posts: 395
- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:44 am
- Location: Hout Bay
Re: Seized 102 power head
The small plywood push pad worked a treat !
I used a flat bit drill 15mm in size and removed a 3mm section of the ply to give me a socket that the stainless steel push rod would locate in.
I used a flat bit drill 15mm in size and removed a 3mm section of the ply to give me a socket that the stainless steel push rod would locate in.