tank dismantling

rosbullterier · Post by **rosbullterier** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 12:38 am

Has anyone actually successfully removed the end from a tank?

Studying the seam, there is no indication of solder. However I am unsure whether the brazing filler is actually silver solder in which case it could be the same colour as the brass tank.

I have not tried oxy /acetylene or oxy /propane heat because I no longer have that equipment but it would be available if it was worthwhile.

Certainly the plumbers blowtorch does nothing. I don't really want to melt a good tank in the experiment to melt the seam filler.

The method of sawing one apart and brazing /soldering a strip between the two halves seems too crude with the neccessary body filler and such.

Post by **charlesp** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 8:51 am

It's a silver solder, one with quite a high melting point. If I knew how I'd get a piece tested to see what exactly it is...

I completely agree with you about cutting then ends off. It seems a lot of crude work.

I too have not managed to melt the silver solder, I use propane; it didn't touch it!

rosbullterier · Post by **rosbullterier** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 11:50 am

Well, I'll have a go myself with the oxy/propane

mrdraddy · Post by **mrdraddy** » Fri Apr 11, 2008 9:10 pm

I think a lot of the trouble is that the rest of the tank acts as a heat sink conducting the heat away.
maybe seagull heated the whole tank in a furnace(with pre-tinned components?)One could always try putting the whole thing on the bbq,burying it in hot coals and then trying to pull it apart.I know the majority of guys reading this will be carefull but please ensure to flush the tank first.Ithink john mentioned that he had seen the result of a fuel tank explosion,i have too,its not nice!
If anyone wants to go down the cut and shut method of restoring a tank i have access to some "e.d.m" machines,these use a .25mm copper wire to cut anything that conducts electric(in perfect saftey as its done underwater!)I would happily slice the ends off along the solder seams for anyone.The only thing i ask is that the tank is stripped of paint first.
As a aside i think the dents add character!!

40TPI · Post by **40TPI** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 1:56 pm

rosbullterier wrote:Has anyone actually successfully removed the end from a tank?

Gullnut claimed the title for the first tank end removal by desoldering here on Feb 28.....(search on his posts), not seen any prior art counter claim since!

I was interested in the technique and Simon sent me the offered pictures. To help out I've put them up here for him:

http://good-times.webshots.com/slidesho ... 1483NhluMi

I don't think I'll try to replicate it as described though! The thought of an uncontrolled release worries me!

Paul, you might just regret mentioning the spark erosion kit. You will now be swamped with locals wanting you to salvage their blocks with sheared studs and head bolts.

Now,let me see just how far away are you?!!!!

Peter

mrdraddy · Post by **mrdraddy** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 5:51 pm

Peter,the machines i refered to are not spark errision machines,ie: they cant cut into blind holes,we use them to cut gear teeth and internal splines etc. if anyone does want there ends chopped off

then i wil be happy to do it.Im in woking surrey

rosbullterier · Post by **rosbullterier** » Sun Apr 13, 2008 10:27 pm

Very encouraging results from Gullnut. I assume the small area of what appears to be melt is from localised overheating from the blowtorch.

Am I being lazy asking to be directed towards Gullnuts written heating instructions? I'm not sure how to find the February missive! The melted material must be very hard silver solder and I see the soldered mounting bracket through the inside of the tank has not been affected by the heat.

This is where I thought to bring the heat up around the complete seam sufficiently would have required doing it in a wall of fire bricks eg Thermalite to retain it.

I presume standard solder would be sufficient to remake the seam. I found tinning the inside of a Series 1 Land Rover tank and closing the seams with body solder sticks (with Bakers fluid)gave many years of service.

40TPI · Post by **40TPI** » Mon Apr 14, 2008 2:40 am

rosbullterier wrote:
Am I being lazy asking to be directed towards Gullnuts written heating instructions?

Not at all. The forum has a very useful search facility to trawl back over past posts. Look at the top of this page. Below the:

" Saving Old Seagulls
This forum is hosted by John Williams' Saving Old Seagulls web site"

there is a set of radio buttons. Click on "Search". Searches are primarily on key words or by author. (There are lots of other useful features including wildcards). Enter Gullnut as the author and his entire posting history will be returned.

Alternatively here is the direct link:

http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/fo ... highlight=

Peter

rosbullterier · Post by **rosbullterier** » Tue Apr 15, 2008 12:43 am

40 - (may I call you that?), you're a gent.

I'm visualising following the Gulls steps right now!

40TPI · Post by **40TPI** » Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:37 pm

rosbullterier wrote:40 - (may I call you that?),

If a reference to age then that is quite flattering.............

In terms of heating/separating technique I'd say that Simon merits the description of fearless!

In his subsequent email description he records that the applied air pressure was around 70psi before the cap came away. ..............................

I'm about to try and sort out a tank but will definitely wimp it and use a hacksaw.

Peter

tank dismantling

tank dismantling

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