phil wrote:Ok, it's simple to get the exhaust pipe off, assuming things ( either end of the driveshaft) are not badly rusted together. Just undo the 2 nuts on the drive tube/crankcase joint, and it should pull apart. The driveshaft will be in the drive tube, the water supply pipe and exhaust tube will be attached to the cylinder. Undo the clamp on the exhaust tube at the exhaust port. The exhaust tube is often a tight fit to the cylinder exhaust port, but now that the bottom end of it is free and the clamp is off the other end you can move the end that was attached to the lower unit to help loosen it from the cylinder, wiggle it back and forth and sideways to encourage it as you pull it off the exhaust port.
The water tube will still be attached to the cylinder, undo the brass nut and any wire holding it on.
Now you can examine the exhaust port area for any cylinder cracks, as it is an area that is somewhat prone to cylinder cracking.
The exhaust tube and water supply tube usually come off the lower unit quite easily. It's all very simple unless there is severe corrosion at either end of the drive shaft. That can make it difficult to disassemble.
I find a piece of stainless cable about 6" long and 3/16" to 1/4" diameter chucked in a drill makes a decent cleanup wire brush for the water galleries in the block. After chipping all the chucks out with another tool. It lasts longer if you unlay a strand and use it to seize the cable about 1/2" -3/4" from the business end.
Looks good by the way. You might try to pickup a crankcase somewhere. Too bad that's broken off. Someone in the U.K. Will offer you one hopefully.
Thanks very much for that - crank case will be sourced soon - I cannot undo the screw between the tubes at the top of the gb - the outer one is off but the middle one is a pig.
Wow your quick. Well worth getting the exhaust tube and copper fitting off. Rust settles there and like mentioned above it will grow into a block cracking mass. At the very least you will find the water entry severley reduced in diameter. The interior of the copper water tube is also likely reduced in diameter bit and will benefit from a swab. If I have read the market right the amount of cracked century blocks out there should make any other parts very easy for you to come by so that block kept in top shape will serve you well for a long time.
Re the obstruction spanner if the tolerances are similiar to the 40 mdls you can use a regular spanner running paralell to the drive tube and turn it with an adjustable. better to have an obstruction spanner but not required.
Sometimes a combination spanner will let you get it started as well. Open end parallel to drivetube heavy screwdriver in the ring end to turn.
Likely would not hurt to give it a bit of heat with a propane blowtorch, and then hit it with your favorite penetrating oil while hot, that will often draw in the lubricant enough to help. Try several cycles.
Or if you are willing to risk damaging the nut, a small cold chisel or cape chisel and small hammer to the end of the nut just till it loosens enough to turn with a spanner, make sure you are moving it in the proper direction to loosen it. If you are very careful you can likely get it started without damaging it too much.
david doyle wrote: If I have read the market right the amount of cracked century blocks out there should make any other parts very easy for you to come by so that block kept in top shape will serve you well for a long time.
Thanks all. I am pretty used to stubborn stuff as i have been doing similar stuff on my vw for quite a while,but the one between the tubes on my gb is a countersunk slotted screw!
Sorry for the abreviations I kind of do it without thinking.
Gb gearbox xh exhaust hx heat exchangers wb wheel bearings and so on are all vw forum stuff. I will try to communicate properly on this veey helpful site. My apologies.
Hi all - i Managed to seperate it ( in a fashion ) started off drilling out the stubborn screw thought i had cleared the casing from the screw edge and gave it a knock with a bit of wood and my trusty wacking stick ( lump hammer)then it came away like this - so much for precision engineering
Drilled screw
My question today is - Does this cover plate come off and if so how?
Do i undo the remaining brass nut or is there another method?
On a plus note the feed pipe looks very clean with almost nil corrosion inside
