SJM 3114

[david doyle]

Reading increases to 19 ohms then goes to zero. (EDIT i am told my source may have been sketchy so take the 19 with a grain of salt)

[Stelios_Rjk]

Great! Thank you David, now I have a way to test the condenser. The coil may be giving its last sparks...

[phil]

As I stated on another thread the MK 1 ignition takes a .20 -.26 mfd condenser or capacitor, this can be the square Villiers original spec one or an off the shelf capacitor such as an orange drop Mylar in the stated range which are generally available from electronics supply houses for under $1.

I have one of these in my AC model 102 it works just fine. The one I used was rated at .20mfd at 400 volts. The specification I mentioned comes from my Mercotronic model 98 outboard motor ignition analyzer manual. (ie .20-.26 mfd for Villiers MK1 Seagull ignitions)

Here is a typical website for capacitors (condensers) I see that they offer .22 mfd and .25 mfd at 630 volt orange drop Mylars at under $1 each. http://www.justradios.com/orderform. This website is in Canada.

The higher the voltage rating the better(thicker) the insulating layer, people familiar with electronics usually recommend using a 400 volt or more capacitor for magneto service.

If you go this route it's a good idea to order a few inches of spaghetti tubing as the leads on these capacitors are bare metal and the side going to the points needs to be insulated from the stator plate.

[david doyle]

Priceless Phil, thanks.

[phil]

Wow, your up early or late!

[Stelios_Rjk]

I have a new condenser type SC-352 Han-nan made in Japan if that says anything... I don't know where could be fitted. It is 0.22 mfd so it should do. I think I will try with this one to see what I can get.

[phil]

The only things to remember are not to use a polarized condenser, (ie one that has a plus or minus sign on it ) or an electrolytic condenser (one where the insulation between interior foil layers is formed by an oxide coating on the foil) They can be identified by the plus or minus sign, and they are almost always in a tubular metal container, sometimes the aluminum container is covered with clear plastic, also typically they have a low voltage rating less than 100volts.

If you could show the condenser you are planning to use I would be happy to try to identitify it for you, if you feel unsure about it. Likely the worst that can happen is that you damage the condenser you try. Does it show a voltage rating on it near the mfd value?

Fit it anywhere that one of the leads (wires) will reach the points, the other wire goes to the stator plate as ground, and somewhere you can anchor it to prevent movement. I think mine fit where the original condenser was located, but it was a while ago so I may be mistaken on that.

[Stelios_Rjk]

This is it. http://www.auto1688.com/ebasic/58776/sell-51797.html

It doesn't have an indication for volts. Since you talked about identification let me show you my lot. Those parts came together.



Yeap, I know the electrolytic condensers, a friend of mine builds amplifiers with tubes etc..

[david doyle]

Wow, your up early or late!

Up early. tried to catch the big female walleye while they were still in the shallows. Guess I was'nt early, enough got skunked on the big uns couple small males to prove I was on the right rocks thou so try again earlier tommorow. Nice morning since reading your post I launched, ran 10 kms up lake, fished, lounged thru a thermos of coffee, ran back down, loaded back up and still have time to fry up some eggs and steak for the kids before school. Gotta love these long northern days!

[phil]

Yes Stellios, it appears to be an automotive condenser it will be fine although I do see what you mean abut finding a place to fit it. The ones I mentioned are quite compact, maybe your friend that builds amplifiers would have a good source for the type I mentioned.

David I remember years ago fishing the night away up near Rainbow Lake, Alta when I worked for Esso Producing Dept. The sun would briefly dip below the horizon between about midnight and 1:30 am. That would have been 1970.

[david doyle]

Stelios:

would one of those automotive ones mount under the post that holds the latch to cover the points box? Or just drill a small hole to bolt it on the plate.

[Stelios_Rjk]

The small one is thick enough but thanks to 1650bullet I will use an original one!!

[Stelios_Rjk]

You know why did I change my avatar, right?

[Horsley-Anarak]

You know why did I change my avatar, right?

Was it to prove that you don't drink "The Amber Nectar"

Or did you change your avatar because it is "beer o'clock", It is for me, bank holiday weekend Friday night.

H-A

[Stelios_Rjk]

Because in Hellas we fix'em all.. and it's always "beer o'clock"!!!

Today I received the replacement coil (M1361) shorter than the original but I managed to fit it and the engine worked!!! Point gap the recommended 0.5mm. Pictures on the way!

Points still sparking but not so hard as before.









It was a little bit tricky to fit the coil as it is short. You have to screw a little bit the grab screws until the coil stand still. I have connect with a wire the pad from a dead coil and glue it with silicon. The point where you have to solder the points' wire has a screw but I didn't manage to undo it. It was soft and was easily distort, so I solder the wire on it.

I let the engine run for about half an hour, no problem occur.

Time for a FIX! (It's a Greek brand, it's not a joke can )