Saving Old Seagulls

I guess this is what happens when a puller is used on a Seagull flywheel ?

The missing weight will not effect the rotation much, the missing strenght may well do so?

Is the flywheel now scrap?

If so its a shame, as the parts bin I have now is very thin and not a great deal is left.

Note, this picture shows the flywheel as found and in the bottom of the steel case it came in, it was not painted and the metal has just got some light corrosion on it, I blasted it clean later for a better inspection.

Didn't we tell you not to use a puller on any Seagull flywheel especially a Wypac as they're BRITTLE!

You can probably tell us, why we said that.

As for even thinking of using it, it's you who's going to get hit when it lets go big time, it's too far to travel for us, to attend the funeral!

Charles uk wrote:Didn't we tell you not to use a puller on any Seagull flywheel especially a Wypac as they're BRITTLE!

You can probably tell us, why we said that.

As for even thinking of using it, it's you who's going to get hit when it lets go big time, it's too far to travel for us, to attend the funeral!

Who said that I used a puller? it was not myself.

This was part of the Seagulls box of spares that I was gifted.

Cleaned up the flywheel looks not to have been used?

And you were in the UK it would be a non-issue...you can't give the things away.

Of all the Seagull motors I have had I have never seen this groove, does it date the flywheel ?

fleetingcontact wrote:And you were in the UK it would be a non-issue...you can't give the things away.

Here it has a value, I can make a test bed to run up Wipac 2 coils to see if the spark at the plug is constant, I have a flywheel base plate, the damaged flywheel, I just need a crank now !

I added a century head to my test rig by drilling out a the tank lug and bolting it to the tiller arm attach point. This way l know l have a good earth for the plug and don't have to muck around clamping or holding plug.

I built one with a dummy home made crank, a couple of pulleys & variable speed motor that could spin the flywheel between 500 & 5000 revs when I was researching with another member, Seagull ignition performance as part of my Seagull technical overview stuff & to assist choosing the most suitable components for my race engine builds.

Does that make us sick puppies?

Sorry Roy I assumed it was you, as it looked like it had been bead blasted a couple of times & we take that as your signature.

Hugz wrote:I added a century head to my test rig by drilling out a the tank lug and bolting it to the tiller arm attach point. This way l know l have a good earth for the plug and don't have to muck around clamping or holding plug.
magneto test rig.jpg

Now that is a good idea, I think it was yourself who told me he had made a test rig?

I have a cylinder head from an engine, one tank tang has been broken off, I now know what to do with the cylinder head, I just need a center shaft now.

Charles uk wrote:I built one with a dummy home made crank, a couple of pulleys & variable speed motor that could spin the flywheel between 500 & 5000 revs when I was researching with another member, Seagull ignition performance as part of my Seagull technical overview stuff & to assist choosing the most suitable components for my race engine builds.

Does that make us sick puppies?

Sorry Roy I assumed it was you, as it looked like it had been bead blasted a couple of times & we take that as your signature.

May we have an image of that dummy shaft please.

Roy, the bead blaster

I've looked but have no idea where I put it, but did find the support frame & the crank shaft pulley, they were the toothed flat belt variety, the crankshaft one had 32 teeth so the motor one must have had 100 or 110 to get the revs from a 1500 rev DC motor up to 5000.

The crank was stainless & probably made from 60mm round bar with around 1.25 untouched in the middle then main bearing size either side (0.624"),
the flywheel taper is 1 in 10 & in the same position an an existing crank then with any thread that you have a nut for. The other end the same length as your crank then a reduced diameter to suit the 32 teeth pulley.
I had a 3mm ally plate siliconed to the crankcase that was half full of oil to keep the bearings happy, then the crankcase was bolted to the support frame with the crank horizontal.

I measured the flywheel revs with a Tiny Tach, then all the electronic stuff was done by the professor.

Give me a break this might have been 10 years ago!

If my son appears I will post you a pic of anything I can locate.

This is all I can find. Sorry.

Charles uk wrote:This is all I can find. Sorry.

That looks like a straight shaft without a taper, I suppose as long as the shaft suits the exit at the top of the flywheel, when clamped up with the nut it will work?

That's a biro holding the pulley wheel so you see the teeth & the grub screw holding on the crank.

The dummy crank had a 10 to 1 taper just like a real crank! It was just solid in the middle so the balance wasn't disturbed!