Saving Old Seagulls

Charles uk wrote:I meant the spanner steps as well, everything before the decorating starts.

OK it's on the stand
Tiller of along with carb petrol tank (fuel pipe)
Dome nut &rope puller flywheel cover if non plastic
Transom clamp (it's now of the stand and on the bench)
Wee screw at top of exhaust tube
2x drive shaft nuts (we now have 2 halves)
2x gearbox bolts and drive shaft pinch bolt we now have 3 sections (power head gearbox drive tube complete with waterpump housing
Remove water pump housing from drive tube screw back onto gearbox (unless drive shaft is stuck fast )
Remove Exhaust Tube from block remove water pipe also
Now to the power head
Remove block slid away from piston
Stick a small ball bearing in the little indent and replace an old dome nut give it a skelp with a hammer of she pops
Unscrew base plate bolt remove keyway and of with base plate.
Now I'd go to clyn head Remove it check waterways (I think your taking the proverble here I could be in the pub) now I'd say is time to start cleaning/polish all of above unless you want to strip further. Bartender more ale.....or I should say teacher can i leave the room...

I asked John re how far the pointer should go into the senter shaft keyway?

Johns reply is below and sort of tells me that the flywheel could well we traveling around the center shaft?


Hello Roy,

if the key was in the keyway it should not go in at all.

Regards,
John
SOS

Folks any comments?

John,

Thanks on this info,

It sounds as if the flywheel can be traveling around the center shaft, so the ignition timing is a none event?

Lets hope the flywheel is not too tight then?

I have a one pound copper faced hammer, that should do the trick?

Regards

Roy

tambikeboy wrote:

Charles uk wrote:I meant the spanner steps as well, everything before the decorating starts.

OK it's on the stand
Tiller of along with carb petrol tank (fuel pipe)
Dome nut &rope puller flywheel cover if non plastic
Transom clamp (it's now of the stand and on the bench)
Wee screw at top of exhaust tube
2x drive shaft nuts (we now have 2 halves)
2x gearbox bolts and drive shaft pinch bolt we now have 3 sections (power head gearbox drive tube complete with waterpump housing
Remove water pump housing from drive tube screw back onto gearbox (unless drive shaft is stuck fast )
Remove Exhaust Tube from block remove water pipe also
Now to the power head
Remove block slid away from piston
Stick a small ball bearing in the little indent and replace an old dome nut give it a skelp with a hammer of she pops
Unscrew base plate bolt remove keyway and of with base plate.
Now I'd go to clyn head Remove it check waterways (I think your taking the proverble here I could be in the pub) now I'd say is time to start cleaning/polish all of above unless you want to strip further. Bartender more ale.....or I should say teacher can i leave the room...

And if I just want to remove the flywheel?

tambikeboy wrote:

Charles uk wrote:Can any of the readers of this thread, post a typical list of the steps they would normally take in the restoration of a 40 plus they've just bought.

2 or 3 different lists would paint a better picture.

An honest answer to an honest question
The very 1st thing I check is it sparking does it have compression
Don't bother to much regarding fuel (there usually bunged up anyway. So basically i then know it's sparking know my ht lead is probably ok smile because I don't need to purchase a new spark plug and know ignition system is 99% ok then the spanners come out after that just make sure I do as could a job as I can.in failing that jump on here and ask the guru's IT WORKS EVERY TIME.
China....

It looks like there is no key in the keyway slot so the flywheel is traveling around the center shaft?


I have a very good compression, a new spark plug and lead, even a nice spark until yesterday, then that stopped.


Its time to remove the flywheel.

Punch in flywheel removel òn search icon others have quicker method's china.

tambikeboy wrote:Punch in flywheel removel òn search icon others have quicker method's china.

I tried Flywheel and Flywheel Removal, too common was the result so nothing was shown.

A question, the Service Sheet Number 2 and on the removal of the Flywheel tells you how to remove the flywheel.

It tells you to remove the dome nut, take the cover off and oil the keyway, that is what I did last night.

It them tells you to replace the dome nut and then SCREW IT DOWN FULLY.

If it is fully down how will the shaft free off from the flywheel when you hit the dome nut?

Ok, now I understand, as there are no washers under the nut there is free space for the acrion to happen

It won't screw down fully if you remove rope puller I'd use an old (unbashed) Dome nut.

You leave the starter-pulley-plate off. Now you have a space for the flywheel to travel up. Get a mate to hold the flywheel with two hands and the engine off the ground and hit nut with hammer which will break the seal between tapered shaft and flywheel. Undo nut and lift off.....

Another question, the user manual part 2 also says the removal of the flywheel is a two man job.

In may case I am alone, can I suspend the motor from a secure point above and then use my 1 pound copper faced hammer to drive the shaft downwards?

I saw a picture where a Cats Cradle of lines was fastened around the outer edges of the flywheel, I can do that option also>

Advice please.

Hugz wrote:You leave the starter-pulley-plate off. Now you have a space for the flywheel to travel up. Get a mate to hold the flywheel with two hands and the engine off the ground and hit nut with hammer which will break the seal between tapered shaft and flywheel. Undo nut and lift off.....
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Hugz, Thanks, got that, please read my posting re me hanging the motor up as I am on my own here.

How did you remove the flywheel on the early 102 you restored?

Hugz wrote:How did you remove the flywheel on the early 102 you restored?

I did not remove it, in truth I have yet to remove one, same with a cylinder head or a piston assembly.

All the motors I seem to get are just in poor condition but not the piston or even the older Villiers coils, this far they have all worked !

A brave man would stick 2 fingers in the flywheel recess and take the weight of motor in one hand whilst whacking with the other remember the further that it's of the ground the further it's conna fall...