Need help - overheating / no water flow :(

[Fordmayhem]

I've posted here before and With your help I got her up and running.

It's been a year since I last used her, and she started first pull.

I took her out on the water but she overheated and wouldn't start until cooled down.

The problem I'm seeing is that no water is being pumped through to cool.

I thought it may be blocked - so I blew over the outflow of the cylinder head and could feel my breath come out of the intake - so surely it isn't blocked~? Should I run a hose through anyway~?

Should I Crack open the water pump housing~? I'm really not sure where to go from here.

[Keith.P]

I don't know what the motor is, you can pull off the water pump housing which would let you flush out the waterways and see the condition of the impeller.
So I would say that would be the next logical step.

[headdownarseup]

Pound to a penny i bet the block is partially blocked somewhere.
Which motor do you have? Any pics? We like pics

Most of us on here have worked on pretty much all of them over the years.
Impellers very rarely fail, unless the drive shaft that it's attached to has expanded due to corrosion, then you've got bigger issues. All fairly simple to rectify so don't panick too much.

I'd start by removing the powerhead from the lower unit/gearbox assembly.
Then the fun starts!
Remove the cylinder head for a look inside. Ignore the "DONT REMOVE" that's cast into head. The only way to do a good job of this is to remove the head so you can access the waterjacket (that's all the square block 40 & 100 motors) Plenty of previous posts on how to do this. At this point it should become clear as to why the engine overheated! Squirting some water through it isn't going to do a lot. You have to scrape away at the built up crud and gunge that will no doubt be in there.

They all do it ... eventually.

If you get stuck just shout. Plenty of help on here

Jon

[Fordmayhem]

Well i took her apart yesterday. Sorry no pics!

How did i overlook this: the brass intake tube from the water pump housing wasnt seated and was instead coming out the exhaust hole!

How much ep140 do i need to refill in the gearbox? 40 minus 1956 direct drive? I can only get the bung out to drain, as previous owner has dog eared the flst head screw holding the case together. Soak in parrafin to clean gears? Then fill with ep140?


Thanks..

[headdownarseup]

That'll do it then! I wonder if it's been apart before and this fitting was forgotten about?
Try it out and see how the waterflow is. About the thickness of a pencil is what you should see. If not.....you know what to do next.

Do you have access to an impact driver and a blowtorch? This might make the job of removing those stubborn end cap screws a bit easier. Molegrips might work on the filler bung after some heat, but get yourself a replacement bung afterwards if it's one of the nylon type bungs.
Once apart use whichever cleaning chemicals or solvents you like to clean out the gunge . I use some old 2 stroke fuel mix in a bucket with a small paint brush for this job. Works well enough for me.
As for filling gearboxes with oil, this has over the last few months become something of a delicate subject.
As your motor is a featherweight motor, i'm with Jeremy on this.
We seem to think that the best course of action is to fill the gearcase right up till you can get no more oil inside.The best way to do this is to lay the motor down on the ground, fuel tank facing downwards so the gearbox fill plug is pointing upwards.

On the other side of the fence, the BS manuals will tell you to stand the motor upright (as if mounted to the boat) and fill the gearcase only about half full till the excess oil starts to run out of the filler hole.

Once you've got the end cap off you'll begin to see why Jeremy and myself prefer to have plenty of oil rather than not enough.

I'll let you decide on which works best for you.

Jon