[attachment=0]DSCF0379-a.jpg[/attachment][attachment=1]DSCF0373-a.jpg[/attachment][attachment=2]DSCF0359-a.jpg[/attachment]I just received (thanks Chris) WSPCL2531F1 (long shaft, clutch, Silver Century). The block is totally rusted (motor turns with good compression !!!). To complete a project - the designers plans show a long shaft Seagull on my 1970's 15' Gaff rigged trailer/sailer.
I used my power head from W108KK4 (Oct 74, C100) to complete the unit.
Test run showed very poor water outlet. Inspection of the gearbox casing show a bit 'missing'.
What to do ? moulded epoxy ?
broken casting
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Rob Ripley
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
broken casting
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Horsley-Anarak
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Re: broken casting
Epoxy should do the job, build up with weld would be better.
What are the internals of the box like before you spend time on it.
H-A
What are the internals of the box like before you spend time on it.
H-A
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Rob Ripley
- Posts: 442
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- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: broken casting
What are the internals of the box like before you spend time on it.
No idea, I wanted to see if the gearbox/clutch/waterpump worked before I decided whether I would pull it down.
If it did not work at all I other plain bottom end to fit.
Now I know it works, I'll pull it down, check the gearbox and plug the hole.
No idea, I wanted to see if the gearbox/clutch/waterpump worked before I decided whether I would pull it down.
If it did not work at all I other plain bottom end to fit.
Now I know it works, I'll pull it down, check the gearbox and plug the hole.
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Rob Ripley
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:38 am
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: broken casting
[attachment=0]DSCF0395-a.jpg[/attachment]
Opened the gearbox (just to satisfy my curiosity) found it half full of light brown creamy milk, but otherwise looks OK. For a 40+ year old gearbox, is that beginners luck ?
I'm using 'metallic epoxy' to repair the chipped bit and have just cut a new gasket.
Opened the gearbox (just to satisfy my curiosity) found it half full of light brown creamy milk, but otherwise looks OK. For a 40+ year old gearbox, is that beginners luck ?
I'm using 'metallic epoxy' to repair the chipped bit and have just cut a new gasket.
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Rob Ripley
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:38 am
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
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Rob Ripley
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:38 am
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: broken casting
All assembled - pump only produces a dribble !
Used two different power units (C100 & 102, both clean blocks that flow easily checked the water pipe = clean.
What size should the pump rotor be ?
the rotor on the shaft has quite a bit clearance in the recess. another spare rotor is smaller again !
Should the be some kind of water seal above the rotor to stop water being pumped up the drive shaft ?
Used two different power units (C100 & 102, both clean blocks that flow easily checked the water pipe = clean.
What size should the pump rotor be ?
the rotor on the shaft has quite a bit clearance in the recess. another spare rotor is smaller again !
Should the be some kind of water seal above the rotor to stop water being pumped up the drive shaft ?
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: broken casting
I like your pictures with the measurements.
Since the rotor doesn't touch the housing and it pumps a lot of water everything is OK. The used one must be smaller than the new because of the wear of the use. If I am wrong, I hope an expert to correct me.
Since the rotor doesn't touch the housing and it pumps a lot of water everything is OK. The used one must be smaller than the new because of the wear of the use. If I am wrong, I hope an expert to correct me.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
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Rob Ripley
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Re: broken casting
"Since the rotor doesn't touch the housing and it pumps a lot of water everything is OK".
That is what I hope the problem is, as it does not pump water.
"The used one must be smaller than the new because of the wear of the use".
Yet the gearbox shows minimal use - Are they both worn? Are there different size rotors?
How does the water get past the 'joint plate', I copied the one I removed and later on enlarged the hole - still no difference !
That is what I hope the problem is, as it does not pump water.
"The used one must be smaller than the new because of the wear of the use".
Yet the gearbox shows minimal use - Are they both worn? Are there different size rotors?
How does the water get past the 'joint plate', I copied the one I removed and later on enlarged the hole - still no difference !
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1650bullet
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- Location: Australia
Re: broken casting
Thats what they are like. Thats why you have to submerge the leg into the water till its 2 inches above the very bottom of the exhaust tube end. Hold the garden hose up threw the tale tail end on the powerhead and back flush it. Ive used the pencil tip nozzle on my pressure cleaner once to clean out a blocked cooling system. That soughted it out and unblocked it 
. Take the prop of and sumerge it properly and see how you go. Im sure you already know this but that type of model wont pump water at idle or low revs. They have to be at half speed before the water starts to flow out properly.
. Take the prop of and sumerge it properly and see how you go. Im sure you already know this but that type of model wont pump water at idle or low revs. They have to be at half speed before the water starts to flow out properly.-
Stelios_Rjk
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- Location: Athens - Greece
Re: broken casting
Enlarging the hole may be a problem. Use the original dimensions (28mm hole diameter) and a waterproof material for gasket. Explain to your supplier that your gasket will be "swimming". It won't just be between to piece of metal and water would be around. The gasket itself will be in the water without metal pieces around it for some area around the large hole. So the material should be proper for such application. I have gasket material for water and oil but it is not suitable for this particular application. You could also use a piece of thick (3mm) plastic material if it is soft enough to seal the two pieces.
Better use your original gasket if it is not totally worn out.
What 1650bullet said is correct. I have faced the same problem. Submerse you gearbox in that way.
Better use your original gasket if it is not totally worn out.
What 1650bullet said is correct. I have faced the same problem. Submerse you gearbox in that way.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
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Rob Ripley
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:38 am
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: broken casting
... Use the original dimensions (28mm hole diameter)
I've cut a new one with that 28mm dia.
... and a waterproof material for gasket.
3mm heat and water proof plastic
...Better use your original gasket if it is not totally worn out.
it is worn out, only good enough for a template
... Submerse gearbox 2" above ...
Always do that. Temp. is 47C so will wait a few hours before re-assembly and test run.
I've cut a new one with that 28mm dia.
... and a waterproof material for gasket.
3mm heat and water proof plastic
...Better use your original gasket if it is not totally worn out.
it is worn out, only good enough for a template
... Submerse gearbox 2" above ...
Always do that. Temp. is 47C so will wait a few hours before re-assembly and test run.
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Stelios_Rjk
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Re: broken casting
This gasket looks promising!
If temperature is not problem for you, the engine since it pumps water won't have any problem.
Have a look at the following picture. I have faced similar problems so there is some tips.
The colored lines indicate the possibility of loosing water/pressure because of bad sealing.
Yellow: low danger, screws too close so the forced applied seals OK
Orange: medium danger
Red: high danger, screws are away so seal may be weak
double red line: extra high danger, screws are far away plus the exhaust outlet sometimes bend
So check if your edges are flat (mine wasn't) in the case of after testing in appropriate depth water still doesn't flow. After the engines starts it is normal to wait up to 5seconds in half throttle until water comes out of the block.
I believe the rest of the water circulation system is double checked
If temperature is not problem for you, the engine since it pumps water won't have any problem.
Have a look at the following picture. I have faced similar problems so there is some tips.
The colored lines indicate the possibility of loosing water/pressure because of bad sealing.
Yellow: low danger, screws too close so the forced applied seals OK
Orange: medium danger
Red: high danger, screws are away so seal may be weak
double red line: extra high danger, screws are far away plus the exhaust outlet sometimes bend
So check if your edges are flat (mine wasn't) in the case of after testing in appropriate depth water still doesn't flow. After the engines starts it is normal to wait up to 5seconds in half throttle until water comes out of the block.
I believe the rest of the water circulation system is double checked
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
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Rob Ripley
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:38 am
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: broken casting
....So check if your edges are flat
Yes, did that with a straightedge.
...After the engines starts it is normal to wait up to 5seconds in half throttle until water comes out of the block.
All my motors do that.
... I believe the rest of the water circulation system is double checked
Yes, I took both power units that had good water flow ( tested in the drum ) only hours before installing them on the Long leg, both then only produced a trickle at medium to high revs. I also ran a cleaner through the water pipe.
Yes, did that with a straightedge.
...After the engines starts it is normal to wait up to 5seconds in half throttle until water comes out of the block.
All my motors do that.
... I believe the rest of the water circulation system is double checked
Yes, I took both power units that had good water flow ( tested in the drum ) only hours before installing them on the Long leg, both then only produced a trickle at medium to high revs. I also ran a cleaner through the water pipe.
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Stelios_Rjk
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- Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
- Location: Athens - Greece
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Rob Ripley
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Fri Mar 10, 2006 11:38 am
- Location: Melbourne, Australia
Re: broken casting
by Stelios_Rjk ... Epoxy fixing is OK?
Seems to be ... however now I see that it is below the gasket and below the rotor, I'm not sure that it would have made any difference anyway. Maybe some water could have sprayed out there reducing the pressure for the water channel.
Getting on for midnight here ... and very high fire danger in the whole state, so I might assemble tomorrow ... or I might turn the A/C up and stay inside.
Seems to be ... however now I see that it is below the gasket and below the rotor, I'm not sure that it would have made any difference anyway. Maybe some water could have sprayed out there reducing the pressure for the water channel.
Getting on for midnight here ... and very high fire danger in the whole state, so I might assemble tomorrow ... or I might turn the A/C up and stay inside.