spareparts for century100/ built 1965

[segler85]

Hello,

I have some questions about spare parts for my seagull century100. Where can i get some parts? Is there a trader in europe?

I think i need the fuel tap or the parts inside, because it is not tight.
And wat type of impeller did they use? If they used a metal impeller, i think, i will not have to care about. But if its plastik or rubber, i think i need an impeller and some attenden gaskets, for reasons of precaution.

And it can be usefull if i know a trader for some other parts like things of the ignition or something else.

[skyetoyman]

John from this site is your best bet. George at Villiers Parts also good. You could try boiling the cork (see faq) in the fuel tap but again available from John at sos
Impellors very rarely fail on seagulls.

[segler85]

Ok, today i tried the boiling trick and it worked. Than i cleaned the tank and the carburator, and we put it into water. After three times of towing, it runes. It was the first start since about 10 years!

But there was no water coming out of the head. That was working realy good when i jused the engine ten years ago. I also thougt about the muddy water channels at the head and i testet it whit compressed air, they must be free. We did not try it very long, because i was afraid that the engine gets destroid.

How long do they need to spy out water at the head? More than 30seconds? Or must there be a problem with the impeller? And if its an impellerproblem, where can i get one? Would it be possible, that a part from another modell (like yamaha/evinrude/others) can be used?

Thank you,

Jan

[chris]

the impeller rarely wears out, if it is not pumping water the cylinder is blocked up with mud and stuff, it is best to take the head off and have a poke around and get all the gunk out.

[Keith.P]

The impeller is made of hard plastic and not like the modern rubber outboard impellers, available from John on the main SOS site.
Try flushing with a hose pipe first, to see what water flow you have, before worrying about the impeller, blocked waterways in the cylinder are the most common reason for low water flow.
When water is pumping properly you should see water coming out almost instantly.

[supersaint61]

when testing in a tank its best to remove the prop spring , as the water all churning about in your barrel could be a reason its not sucking the water up .. and i found if you run your engine for 20-30 seconds before trying to undo your the head cylinder bolts they will be less likely to shear off

[segler85]

Thank you for your answers. I don't want to remove the head, becaue the engine was working realy good. There haven' t been any problems with the watercooling in the past, and it was not used in saltwater. Only in brackwater and sweet water, before the years of standing in a dry shed.

I will check the engine without the propeller the next days. Or if it becomes to cold, i have to wait until next spring and test the engine at a boat.
I will answer again, when i have news. Maybee i can take some pictures or a video for you!

[Oyster 49]

It's worth checking the water passages as a routine task, particularly if you don't know the condition of them. Take the head off and inspect the water jacket, and clean them out using a small screwdriver. If they are clogged with rust etc. you will have hot spots in the cylinder, which could cause cracks the start. Apply a little heat the bolts and then try to loosen the bolts gently. If you have movement, move in each direction to "free" the bolts off.

[segler85]

But if i remove the head, do i need new bolts and a new head gasket? Or can i replace them easyly? I only knew that from cars, taht you have to use new parts...
And what for a hinge moment do i need?

[Oyster 49]

The bolts should be ok to reuse, but I would suggest fitting a new gasket. It is fairly routine maintainence.

[segler85]

Okey, then i will contact John the next days and order the gasket and forehanded some other parts i maybee need.

Thank you! And i will answer as soon as possible if i have some news!

Jan

[segler85]

Ok, I startet to repair my gull. Thanks to John and his good service
The old impeller has 12mm, the new one nearly 18mm...











Then in fact of the evidence i removed the head...:










Then i cleaned the whole engine a little bit, looks great i think:








And i painted the fueltank. Now i`m exited how it looks with a new decal...


I`ll show you some more pics the next time...

Regards, Jan

[Horsley-Anarak]

It look like you have a good one there.

Nice restoration.

H-A

[Hugz]

You can make a new throttle cable using bicycle brake cables....

Looks good. Healthy block too.

[david1230]

Thank you for your answers. I don't want to remove the head, becaue the engine was working realy good. There haven' t been any problems with the watercooling in the past, and it was not used in saltwater. Only in brackwater and sweet water, before the years of standing in a dry shed.

I will check the engine without the propeller the next days. Or if it becomes to cold, i have to wait until next spring and test the engine at a boat.
I will answer again, when i have news. Maybee i can take some pictures or a video for you!

Raise the water level in your test tank...that often does the trick.