Too much compression

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outboard
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Location: Ayrshire, Scotland

Re: Too much compression

Post by outboard » Sun Sep 25, 2011 6:41 pm

When I say too much compression, I'm comparing it to that of an FPC which I can turn quite easily with my hand, this one is a bit stiffer.
As for doing anything with the rings, all I did was fit them, nothing else.
With the crank split from the head it turns easily.

I'll use the head from another engine and see where it goes from their, however, some advice on what I should do to the rings would be appreciated.

I did get the engine to start a couple of times but I was knackered by the number of pulls I had before getting anything, so I'll dump this head.

Thanks guys, that's what I enjoy about this site, your all willing to help guys like myself.

Keith.P
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Re: Too much compression

Post by Keith.P » Sun Sep 25, 2011 8:22 pm

What ever you have that has not been damaged will be ok to use again.
If the rings have no sign if damage, ie chipped, scored, then re-use.
By the sounds of it, you need to re-wire the big-end, change the cylinder and clean out any debris, if rings are ok?
If ok,I would check the rings in the replacement bore for clearance also.

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Re: Too much compression

Post by outboard » Tue Sep 27, 2011 3:08 pm

Hi Guys

The long and short of it all, I changed the barrel and find the flywheel tight to turn, so it's back to basics.
I'll check the forum to get info about gapping the new rings and from their I'll do a rebuild and clean, again. Thanks for the input.

Gerard

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Re: Too much compression

Post by Collector Inspector » Wed Sep 28, 2011 8:48 am

Gerard

If you have changed the block and still having the problem see if the piston without rings falls down the bore real easy then check to see if you have a bent conrod.

B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others

Keith.P
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Re: Too much compression

Post by Keith.P » Wed Sep 28, 2011 11:02 am

Question?

As it seems that the big end cap screw securing wire has caused all the problems so far.
Have you replaced it, is the con-rod free moving on the crank, with no resistance at all.
This all should be done with the engine separate from the leg, so you don't get any resistance from the bottom end, gearbox, etc.

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